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Civilized Evil 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tim Sorenson, Pete Gulyash and friends
Page Views: 1,343
Submitted By: M.Morley on Jan 12, 2004
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Pulln through the crux on top rope

Description 

Begin at a large boulder at the base of the cliff, underneath a prominent right-facing corner. Climb up, clip a single bolt, and move left (crux). Fiddle in some gear and continue up to reach corner system. Great protection from here with nuts or TCUs. Shares anchor with Dirty Rat's Crack.


Protection 

1 bolt, a few nuts & TCUs.



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By Scott Bullock
Jan 18, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

This is an amazing climb and a very challenging lead for the grade. The crux is being willing to climb past the first bolt which is about 25' otd. Anyway once you clip the one and only bolt traverse out left into the pinkish corner the holds are fairly obvious except for a hidden jug at arms reach. Reach high and your had will land in a nice horizontal hadn crack. Place a nut #7 or a #2 or #3 Metolius tcu here. Continue on up the corner where it gets a bit physical - small to medium cams protect you to the anchors above a small roof. The grunting and groaning is well worth it and you will have a nice badge since this route is seldom led!

By Nick Haupt
Jan 21, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

A great route, you can lessen the runout to the gear placements after the first bolt by fishing in a number six nut in a small slot about five feet directly above the first bolt.

By Pablo Paster
Jan 25, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

This is a great route but there is no way that it deserves a 5.10 rating. Camel and Llama are 5.10, this is not.

By vincent lopez
Sep 18, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

another vote for this being easier that 5.10 . there are some stiff 5.10's on bishops peak so i think this qualifies as a 5.9 or maybe 9+ . i'm also not really sure why this route wouldn't be lead much as mentioned by another poster seeing as this route has the closest thing resembling a bomber crack for pro anywhere on BP. good route ..... watch out for the tree branch on the way down....

By ashoemak
From: Pismo Beach, CA
Mar 6, 2010

Great route! Lead it this morning for the first time and got a #2 TCU into the big jug to lessen the run-out up to the corner. I also think this felt more like a 5.9.