Civetta Group Rock Climbing
The massive and broad NW face of Monte Civetta aft...
The Civetta Group is a massive and sprawling group of rock peaks in the Eastern Dolomites. The group is dominated by it's central and naming feature, Monte Civetta ((10,555 feet, 3218 meters), and has several spurs or sub-ranges of stunning summits radiating from it. The main range of peaks runs NNE from the main summit of Monte Civetta, and includes other famous names such as Torre di Valgrande, Punta Quota IGM, and Pan di Zucchero. Running in a southerly direction and radiating from Picolla Civetta just South of the main summit are 2 additional spurs: Pelsa Massif (Pelsakamm), which is anchored at it's extreme SW outpost by Torre Venezia, Cantoni Massif (Cantonikamm) which has Torre Trieste as it's outpost, and the Southeast Spur (Sudostkamm) radiating from the Civetta main summit and terminating at the Cima della Sasse. Highlights of the group:The mighty main summit of Monte Civetta is widely reknowned for the massive 3300 foot high NW face and it's classic Solleder-Lettenbauer Route (UIAA Gr. V+) established in 1925 by a pair of Munich climbers. The Torre di Valgrande with it's celebrated Carlesso-Menti Route (UIAA VI+), which was for some time thought to be the most technically challenging route of the Dolomites, but is now a very difficult but entirely free route (UIAA VII), is another important summit. The Torre Venezia in the Pelsa subgroup is widely reknowned for the Tissi route (UIAA VI-) on it's South face.
Mount Civetta has several long ridgelines and a central northern massif and can be divided into several sections based on these ridgelines:
The Central Massif (Haupt Kamm): This ridge centers on Monte Civetta, whose summit is 10,555 feet (3,218 meters), and which is connected to Piccola Civetta, or Kleine Civetta, by a ridge running to the SW. The first major point to the N is Quota IGM (9,814 feet, 2,992 meters), which has the reknowned Philipp-Flamm route on it's NW face, and thence Punta Civetta (9,486 feet, 2,892 meters). The Civetta summit may be reached by a UIAA Gr. I, the "Tivian Way," which also serves as a descent route for many of the climbs on the mountain. The Central Massif climbs are best approached from the lakeside village of Alleghe, by means of the Rifugio Coldai (Coldai Hut, 7,003 feet, 2135 meters)) as a base of operations. To get to Rifugio Coldai it is best to take the ski lifts (two - 9-13 euros return) up to Colde Baldi then follow the road down to path 556, which then leads up to the pass and the Rifugio. From here it is another 60-90 minutes or more around to the front of the face to approach the routes. This lift does not open until 9 in the morning and closes at 4:30 or 5 pm (and it would be 3-4 hours uphill without it) so you likely need to go up the afternoon prior to your ascent to assure enough time to be successful.
Northern Massif (Nordkamm): From Monte Civetta, a major spur or subgroup runs in a Northerly direction, and which encompasses many well known rock towers. The Northern-most outlier is Torre Coldai; in order Southward: Torre d'Alleghe, Torre di Valgrande, Castello, Torre Delago, Pan di Zucchero, and finally terminating at Punta Civetta. It also is accessed as the Central Massif described above.
The Pelsa Subgroup (Pelsa-kamm): This ridgeline forms the SW appendage of the mighty Civetta Group, radiating on a SSW line from Picolla Civetta and terminating in the beautiful Torre Venezia along with it's less imposing, but none the less attractive peaks, Torre Babele, and Punta Agordo. The Rifugio Vazzoler (Vazzoler Hut) is reached from a path starting in Listolade (car park at Capella Trieste up the road from Listolade - walk of approximately 1.5 hours to the hut), and it serves as a base of activity in the Pelsa-kamm area.
Cantoni Massif (Cantoni kamm): This ridgeline radiates in a SE direction from Picolla Civetta ending at Torre Trieste (7,990 feet, 2436 meters). Major named summits (sequentially from Picolla Civetta) include Cima de Toni, Cima Paolina, Cima della Busazza, Castello della Busazza, and the incomparable Torre Trieste. The Cantoni Kamm is separated from the Pelsa Kamm by Val Cantoni. On a chart, the 2 ridgelines of peaks appear to form an inverted "Y" , with its base at Monte Civetta and Picolla Civetta as the join of the branches. This area is also accessed from the Rifugio Vazzoler (Vazzoler Hut) which is reached after a 90 minute walk from a path starting above Listolade in the car park at Capella Trieste.
The group has a large numbers of access points, of which the town of Alleghe is the most important. The Rifugio Coldai is the principal base for climbs within the main group (Monte Civetta, Torre di Valgrande, Torre Da lago, etc). The Southern spurs are served by Rifugio Vazzoler which is reached from the village of Listolade.
Weather station 22.4 miles from here
3 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Civetta Group
Carlesso-Menti Route 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Europe
: ... : Torre di Valgrande
Seen from the NW, the eye is immediately drawn to a striking near vertical crack system piercing the upper half of the face. Lower 5th class climbing at the UIAA Gr. III level (5.4/5.5)reaches an overhang/cave at the base of the fantastic dihedral and crack system. Climbing out from the cave and reaching the dihedral proper constitutes the crux at UIAA Gr. VIII- (5.11a/b), but aid may be used to overcome this obstacle to progress (A0,A1). The remaining climbing is still quite stout at UIAA Gr. V...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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Monte Civetta as seen from near Pordoi Pass.
This photo includes the central section and North ...