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Civetta Group

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Cantoni Massif (Cantoni Kamm)  
Central Massif (Haupt Kamm) 
Moiazza area 
Monte Civetta 
Northern Massif (Nordkamm) 
Pelsa Massif Subgroup (Pelsakamm) 

Civetta Group  


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Elevation: 10,555'
Page Views: 1,025
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Apr 10, 2013
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Monte Civetta as seen from near Pordoi Pass.

Description 

The Civetta Group is a massive and sprawling group of rock peaks in the Eastern Dolomites. The group is dominated by it's central and naming feature, Monte Civetta ((10,555 feet, 3218 meters), and has several spurs or sub-ranges of stunning summits radiating from it. The main range of peaks runs NNE from the main summit of Monte Civetta, and includes other famous names such as Torre di Valgrande, Punta Quota IGM, and Pan di Zucchero. Running in a southerly direction and radiating from Picolla Civetta just South of the main summit are 2 additional spurs: Pelsa Massif (Pelsakamm), which is anchored at it's extreme SW outpost by Torre Venezia, Cantoni Massif (Cantonikamm) which has Torre Trieste as it's outpost, and the Southeast Spur (Sudostkamm) radiating from the Civetta main summit and terminating at the Cima della Sasse. Highlights of the group:The mighty main summit of Monte Civetta is widely reknowned for the massive 3300 foot high NW face and it's classic Solleder-Lettenbauer Route (UIAA Gr. V+) established in 1925 by a pair of Munich climbers. The Torre di Valgrande with it's celebrated Carlesso-Menti Route (UIAA VI+), which was for some time thought to be the most technically challenging route of the Dolomites, but is now a very difficult but entirely free route (UIAA VII), is another important summit. The Torre Venezia in the Pelsa subgroup is widely reknowned for the Tissi route (UIAA VI-) on it's South face.

Getting There 

The group has a large numbers of access points, of which the town of Alleghe is the most important. The Rifugio Coldai is the principal base for climbs within the main group (Monte Civetta, Torre di Valgrande, Torre Da lago, etc). The Southern spurs are served by Rifugio Vazzoler which is reached from the village of Listolade.

Climbing Season



Weather station 22.4 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Civetta Group
Carlesso-Menti Route sketch; many possible lines exist on easier lower portion of face.

Carlesso-Menti Route 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  Europe : Italy : ... : Torre di Valgrande
Seen from the NW, the eye is immediately drawn to a striking near vertical crack system piercing the upper half of the face. Lower 5th class climbing at the UIAA Gr. III level (5.4/5.5)reaches an overhang/cave at the base of the fantastic dihedral and crack system. Climbing out from the cave and reaching the dihedral proper constitutes the crux at UIAA Gr. VIII- (5.11a/b), but aid may be used to overcome this obstacle to progress (A0,A1). The remaining climbing is still quite stout at UIAA Gr. V...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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