|g. V3 - Middle Earth
A good if short route; steep, and safe as long as the block holding in the old pin doesn't fail. A fun route to do in the area.
Start on the face; climb up to a ledge, then move left and back right aiming for the notch where the roof meets the left-facing corner above. Pull the roof (crux), then up the face and around the corner to an anchor.
20' right of V-3.
gunks rack, maybe some RPs or small stoppers. fixed pin for the crux.
Jul 18, 2008
My guidebook (Swain) has this as 10-. It felt harder than 10-, so I won't quibble with the 10+ rating given here (did a hold break?).
(Warning: gear beta follows).
The crux is protected by a piton - which always makes be nervous. I found a marginal nut placement a couple feet to the right of the pin. I also set a ballnutz in opposition to this nut a couple feet below and to the left. That gave me the confidence to pull through the crux.
The pin looks good, and you pull the crux with the pin at your stomach. I just know I wouldn't commit to the crux without backing up the pin.
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 19, 2008
Dick and Todd have me, Joe Bridges and Dick Saum for the FA in 76. That's what I've always thought, but I really don't remember putting a pin in. I only placed a few pins in my life, and most of those quickly fell out (the Star Action pins stayed in for a long time). Perhaps the pin was added later, or, if the pin was already there, perhaps we did not do the FA.
|By David Stowe|
Jul 28, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
There is no way this is 10+ and has always been rated 10-. It is certainly harder if you are short. This is one of the fastest easiest 5.10 ticks in the Gunks. A total one move wonder. Fun and quick.
From: North Kingstown, RI
Nov 10, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
As is the case with many Gunks routes, it is easier if tall. This is considerably harder than nearby Datmantle and Dismantle which are both similar one-move 5.10s. So 5.10+ is about right.
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Jan 10, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Like many rotues at the Gunks, it's a beta-intensive one-move route. Also, the tree holding all the slings is looking pretty bad lately.