City Slickers 5.12a
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Zach Allen reaching for the crux 2-finger pocket.
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Description Short but stout. This is a slightly overhung route with somewhat powerful moves and not much of a rest. I won't divulge the beta, but know that it's not just an overhang haul - it requires some careful balance.
Protection 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with quicklinks. Third bolt is drawn incorrectly in the Rolofson guidebook; you can't see it from the ground, but it's just over the lip of the ledge. To prevent horrendous abrasion of your rope, clean on rappel.
Max on City Slickers.
| Kevin, the city slicker.
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| Comments on City Slickers |
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By Anonymous Coward Dec 18, 2002
| Starting low off the ground to the right of the starting ledge and the first bolt improves the route. A series of tricky moves off the ground gets to the first bolt and makes the route longer and more continuous. |
By bb Jan 23, 2004 rating: 5.11c
| Since this route is so short, I didn't feel like this climb deserved a 5.12 rating. The juggy two finger pocket out left is an amazing hold! |
By chris deulen Aug 13, 2004 rating: 5.12a
| Just because it's short doesn't mean it's not difficult. No one sandbagged "The Fly" because it was two bolts. I think a boulder rating would be more accurate in this circumstance (though still quite high ball); in this case probably V4/V4+. |
By Matt McMurray From: Castle Rock, CO Apr 20, 2006 rating: 5.12a
| Length schmength... size doesn't matter... err... What I mean is that you better have the moves and stamina if you want to get off this route... 12a! ;-) |
By Erik Durgin Sep 27, 2006 rating: 5.12a
| Great little boulder problem. Definitely worth doing if you are in the area. I agree with the V4/V4+ rating |
By Sam Benedict From: Denver, CO Dec 11, 2006 rating: 5.12a
| This was the first 12a that I actually sent. It seems to be a good one for breaking into the grade. Not as glorious as it could be, being as short as it is. But whatever, it's still a 12a in my book. The setting up to go to the pocket and the tricky mantle certainly warrant the grade. |
By sean connors Dec 13, 2006
| Sam, I poop out better 12s than that! Just kidding. Good send. |
By Davis Benz From: Golden Aug 16, 2009
| is the pocket chipped? seamed to good to be true |
By Luke Childers Aug 21, 2009 rating: 5.12a
| It has been many years since I had climbed this line, but I remembered just how much I do love this line. Yes, it's short but the moves are fun and it's a great warm-up option on this steep and difficult wall. It's also a great grade for those breaking into the 12 grade and I have seen the line bring much satisfaction to those starting to push that grade. Bottom line...it's a nice line. |
By dan scales From: Denver, CO Aug 28, 2009 rating: 5.12a
| Good line! Short but powerful off mostly good holds (minus the top mantle). Great climb if you're breaking into 12. Only my second 12a and it went down first go. |
By Jeff Welch From: Thornton, CO Sep 26, 2009
| I have no idea why Mabe's guidebook gives this no stars. I've climbed plenty of zero star routes, and this is definitely not one of them. Other than the awkward mantle at the start, the moves are really fun and the rock is great. Well worth doing despite the short length. |
By Luke Childers Dec 18, 2009 rating: 5.12a
| Looks like old Darth Jables didn't take his meds today!! We all know this line is more like a three bolt V1-a/b with a five foot long 5.8+c/d toss to gain the lip of what resembles a truck stop-sized, marble, table top. I give it stars!! Fun line. |
By Andrew Vojslavek Dec 31, 2009
| I could maybe see V3, I felt V4 was fair. Wish this could really be bouldered out... getting down would not be fun, though. |
By tcamillieri From: Denver Jan 9, 2010 rating: 5.11c
| Pocket is not chipped. |
By Dave J Jul 9, 2011
| Felt V4 to me. |
By Jon Zucco From: Denver, CO Aug 8, 2012 rating: 5.12a PG13
| If it weren't for the opening and closing ledges, this would be pretty epic: the movement through the middle is a blast (though short-lived). |
By Curt MacNeill From: Boulder, CO Oct 18, 2012
| Short but great. Worth doing for sure even though the Clear Creek guidebook gives it no stars. The mantle alone deserves a star in itself and will make you smile.... |
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