City Park  5.13d

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Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 350 feet Consensus:  5.13d [details] FA:  Roger Johnson, Richard Mathies, 1966 FFA: Todd Skinner, 1986 Submitted By:  Drewsky on Dec 29, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Todd Skinner on City Park (5.13d), Index Town Wall...

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Description 

P1: (.13+ or C1) Next to Godzilla is this obvious pin-scarred splitter seam. This classic easy aid crack at one time had the distinction as the hardest crack in America when Todd Skinner freed it in '86. Another notable ascent was by Hugh Herr, a double amputee who used special bladed shoes to do a free ascent. Chris Schlotfeldt also completed a pinkpoint ascent (pre-placed gear) in the late 90's. Mike Schaeffer made what may be the first "true" redpoint ascent in '06, meaning he placed ALL his gear on lead from the ground. Start via a bolt ladder (.10b) that leads to the base of the crack. Continuously difficult and painful first digit jams (.13d) lead to easier (.11) climbing. The crux is probably the unrelenting nature of the moves.

P2: (.10b) The oft-climbed "approach pitch" to Sloe Children can also be approached via Godzilla. Thin stemming leads to crack and ledgy face climbing above. Most parties end at the anchor below Sloe Children.

P3: Apparently, pitches 3 and 4 of City Park can be free climbed at moderate grades (.10, 5.9+). The belay for pitch 3 would be to the right of the belay for Sloe Children, but its status is unknown to me (bolted or no?). The pitch has reportedly been cleaned recently and is climbable.

P4:

Location 

Start on the bolt ladder leading into the obvious thin crack. This climb had its first integral free ascent (and probably its first "led from the ground placing all gear on lead by someone with real feet who didn't allegedly yo-yo to a lower-off piece and finish in an alternate crack because the original line was greased" free ascent) in '06 by Mike Schaeffer.

Protection 

Lots of nuts for the pin scars, plus cams. Anchors on the first two pitches are fixed; the others are unknown but there is probably a bolter anchor at the top of P4.