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City Park T 
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Godzilla T 
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City Park 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Roger Johnson, Richard Mathies, 1966 FFA: Todd Skinner, 1986
Page Views: 3,910
Submitted By: Drewsky on Dec 29, 2008

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Todd Skinner on City Park (5.13d), Index Town Wall...

Description 

P1: (.13+ or C1) Next to Godzilla is this obvious pin-scarred splitter seam. This classic easy aid crack at one time had the distinction as the hardest crack in America when Todd Skinner freed it in '86. Another notable ascent was by Hugh Herr, a double amputee who used special bladed shoes to do a free ascent. Chris Schlotfeldt also completed a pinkpoint ascent (pre-placed gear) in the late 90's. Mike Schaeffer made what may be the first "true" redpoint ascent in '06, meaning he placed ALL his gear on lead from the ground. Start via a bolt ladder (.10b) that leads to the base of the crack. Continuously difficult and painful first digit jams (.13d) lead to easier (.11) climbing. The crux is probably the unrelenting nature of the moves.

P2: (.10b) The oft-climbed "approach pitch" to Sloe Children can also be approached via Godzilla. Thin stemming leads to crack and ledgy face climbing above. Most parties end at the anchor below Sloe Children.

P3 and P4: Apparently, pitches 3 and 4 of City Park can be free climbed at moderate grades (.10, 5.9+). The belay for pitch 3 would be to the right of the belay for Sloe Children, but I'm not sure. The pitch has reportedly been cleaned recently and is climbable.


Location 

Start on the bolt ladder leading into the obvious thin crack. This climb had its first integral free ascent (and probably its first "led from the ground placing all gear on lead by someone with real feet who didn't allegedly yo-yo to a lower-off piece and finish in an alternate crack because the original line was greased" free ascent) in '06 by Mike Schaeffer.

Protection 

Lots of nuts for the pin scars, plus cams. Anchors on the first two pitches are fixed; the others are unknown but there is probably a bolter anchor at the top of P4.


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By Drewsky
Dec 29, 2008

I have not redpointed this route, but I did severely sprain my left index finger on the 5.11 section at the top. Having small fingers, steel fingertips, superglue and a certain degree of masochism is a good combination for success on this route.
By Ben Gilkison
Jun 11, 2011

Todd Skinner didn't have small fingers; but, he did have an exceptional work ethic.
By Brett Thompson
From: Washington State
Jun 15, 2011

Good observation Ben, Skinner was in it to win it.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jun 18, 2011

Did P2 while doing the Godzilla -> City Park -> Sloe Children linkup. Fun pitch. Thin and balancey off the belay to the mantel, and then into crusing hands. Make sure you bring some small nuts (big brass HB offsets or small BDs) for this pitch.