|1,128 page views|
BETA PHOTO: Citadel and A Dazed Work.
This is a good route with fun moves. Start with feet on the broken/crumbly base of the tower (foot holds might break off). If you start closer to A Dazed Work, then itís a little easier and the rock seems a bit more solid (make sure you traverse right after). The first clip is somewhat taxing (stick clip isnít a bad idea if this is your limit). The rest of the route is very well bolted. The crux comes about 25 feet off the ground when moving over the obvious bulge using the crack. Generally, the holds are very solid and the moves are big. This route might be a little more difficult for shorter people. Make sure you stay to the right, as the features seem to make you want to move left.
The last 1/3 of the climb (once you get to the big crack system) is easier in comparison. If the rock quality was better (particularly at the base) and the difficulty stayed more consistent, this route would definitely be four stars. A great one nonetheless.
This route is on the northwest face of the Citadel tower formation. There are only two routes on this side, and you run right into them as you make you way from the approach trail. A Dazed Work is directly to the left, about 2 feet. (See the photo.)
13 bolts and two anchors with chains. At least a 60m rope.
Mike on Citadel (5.11b) in Poudre Canyon.
Randy on Citadel.