Access to the Main Face is often limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting. Check the DEC web site (www.dec.ny.gov, search for "peregrine route closures"). Closures are posted in the kiosk at the beginning of the approach trail in the (now closed) Poke-O Campground.
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
In just two pitches of climbing, you will be treated to thoughtful face/groove climbing, and some of the most strenuous and technical corner/crack climbing at the grade on the cliff. The second pitch makes this route an instant Dacks classic.
1st Pitch: Eyeball the bolt that sits about 20 feet up the wall below an incipient crack and groove. "Easy-does-it" climbing up to the bolt, then charge your way for the nice, flat belay ledge with a two bolt anchor. (5.8, 75 feet)
2nd Pitch: Move out to the right to gain the nice, big flake. Master the demanding flake by using what would seem to be an illogical method of upward progression, then belay off to the left on a nice belay ledge. (5.9+++, 75 feet)
Right of the obvious Thunderhead roof in a black wall with a line of bolts up it (Menace To Sobriety, 10b). The original start to Cirrhosis begins just to the left at a lone bolt about 20 feet off the ground.
A standard rack stressing the small to medium sizes. Nothing larger than a single #3 Camalot.
In the past I've done M2B to P2 of this climb. But this past weekend I did P1 for the first time. Not G by any measure. One #3 steel nut 5ft below the bolt still makes for an R start. The Move from P1 to P2 is quite hard (I lead it in one pitch so the anchor was merely a lone point of protection for me). You miss this mysterious crux if you do M2B first.