|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Michael Bartosek on Mar 15, 2012|
|Comments on Circus Midget||Add Comment|
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By Lance Ranzer
Jun 23, 2014
Great Climb - tough finish
BETA-- The roof: balance on a wide stance, small hand crack - static layback to set the 1st CRUX clip. Huge hold on top of the roof (thank god)
2nd CRUX is the extended route. I think it's a 10C/D -- Does anyone know the rating for this extension?
Finger jam the crack (very slippery- over chalked), just take the no hands rest after you pull the roof before heading up to this part!!
Aug 4, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just as Chad Parker posted, there is no anchor at the top of this climb! I learned this the hard way. You must continue up a slippery crack that requires either gear or some far-off bolts that you can protect with (although it's awkward). The required crack finish was unexpected and made the climb feel much harder, especially after pulling the roof and thinking that you're done.
Although I haven't seen a fall on it yet, the bolt before the CRUX bolt (i.e., the bolt before the one that protects the roof) is dangerously low and would have been better placed a foot higher. Blowing the clip could easily result in decking on the big ledge up there. Be careful and get some good finger locks in that slipper crack.