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Circus Circus 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 973
Submitted By: Scott Tucker on Jun 4, 2006
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Brian nearing the top of Circus Circus, the route ...

Description 

Rated as a 5.6, but I don't think a 5.6 leader would be happy on the crux lower portion. The area around the first and second bolts will be exciting if you think you're on a 5.6. Considerably harder than Progressive Slot (5.6) down the wall.


Location 

In the corner to the right of a big alcove. A small, adorable, backpack-eating mouse lives in a notch at the bottom of the climb. Hide your Clif Bars.


Protection 

Bolts



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By 46and2
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 8, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

IMHO I would agree that although not tough by no means, 5.6 (guidebook) especially at the beginning might be a tad bit sandbag. Expect a 5.7 and you'll probably be ready, have fun!!

By Randy Loveless
Oct 30, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Yeah... I'd say it definitely ranks closer to a 5.7

By Micah C
Nov 17, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

An awkward 5.7 at best. I agree that a 5.6 leader would most likely end up bailing on this thing. And beyond that, I didn't think it was a very fun climb at all, so why bother. I used the adjacent face to the left a lot. Is that off route?

By Christine Gal
From: lake forest, il
Feb 3, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

the first two bolts were definitely not a 5.6
beyond that it's an ok climb if you can clear your head

By Jiana ten Brinke
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 31, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

I agree with other posts, beginning is not 5.6 at all...I would say more like 5.8/5.9. Because I couldn't reach the second bolt for this climb, I used the one directly above the first bolt for Circus Circus. Technically it's part of another route I think, but it was much safer to use. After you get past that it's smooth sailing and definitely matches the rating.