|Loch Vale & uphill
||Trad, Mixed, 3 pitches, 350', Grade III
|Consensus: ||M8+ [details]|
|FA: ||Aaron Montgomery and Ryan Vachon|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Winter, Spring|
|Page Views: ||651|
|Submitted By: ||Aaron M on May 16, 2013|
||1 person likes this page. Your opinion:
Top of the first pitch.
Photo by John Dickey.
P1: This is a M6ish pitch that starts on frozen turf and then climbs a shallow corner until you move out a small roof and traverse right for 30 feet or so (50m).
P2: This is a M8ish pitch where you start moving up and right through a very large roof system and around a corner to a nice belay cave (30m).
P3: This is a M8ish pitch. Continue through the last chimney and roof on very licheniny rock (20m).
The climbing on the last two pitches is very physical with lots of tool torqueing and liebacking, and because of that, we really didn't know how to grade it. We would super love to have another group do it to get some perspective.
The line has three pitches and is Southwest-facing on an outcropping of rock on your way to the back side of the Sharkstooth. You would pass the buttress and look back to see it as you start to approach the talus on the way up. It is probably only 200 yards from the center of the valley though.
The gear on the first pitch is "just ok", but the gear on the 2nd and 3rd pitch is all pretty good. You will need several #2s, #3s, and #4s to protect the last two pitches well, though.
May 16, 2013
Very straightforward lines. Pretty darn good quality rock. TONS of lichen on pitches 2 and 3 (spicy).