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Monument Canyon
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Circle, Square, and the Triangle 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: KC Baum, T Archibeque
Page Views: 1,978
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 12, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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S, C, & T.

Description 

This is a inviting looking bolt line just right of the ??/Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral. It shares the same start. It is slopey, slabby, face climbing with modern bolts. With traffic, this route will change. It has a 3 bolt anchor and a 160 foot rappel. You might reach the belay of ??/Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral. This route seems out of place in the desert.

Addendum: I included the guidebook rating for the route. It felt a touch stiff to an average climber.


Protection 

15 quickdraws and something for the anchors.



Photos of Circle, Square, and the Triangle Slideshow Add Photo
Joseffa Meir a long way down, following 'Circle Square Triangle (5.10-)' Photo by Tony Bubb, 2005.
Joseffa Meir a long way down, following 'Circle Sq...
Joseffa Meir alomst finished on 'Circle Square and Triangle (5.10-)' a very nice long pitch. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2005.
Joseffa Meir alomst finished on 'Circle Square and...
Jonah Wilkey leading Circle, Square, and the Triangle.
Jonah Wilkey leading Circle, Square, and the Trian...
Comments on Circle, Square, and the Triangle Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 31, 2004

Very thin slab route. Definitely at least a 5.10b if climbed the day after rain. The sand on the rock makes smearing a very delicate process. Also, be sure to bring enough draws (probably at least 13) and there is no good anchors for a single rope rap, so bring two cords. Last few bolts kinda run out at the top makes it a very exciting summit.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 9, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I think the route is pretty hard for 5.9, and that's not just after a rain. The number of moves with climbing at the 5.9 level is significant, and there were a few cruxes that seemed harder. Perhaps this was a poor warm-up to the area, or perhaps I was not climbing well, but I and my partner (both at least solid 5.10 climbers) found this route to be an insecure challenge. Although the pace or nature of the route changes a few times along the way it never really lets up. Fun and challenging!

By Ben Boykin
From: Cheyenne, WY
Mar 27, 2007

We only went to the lower anchor (1 pitch) of this route. Found it to be a very thoughtful execution on my partners part (he was leading). Once in the grey band near the pitch's end, very few handholds, mostly smearing.

By Alex Garhart
Jul 22, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Very fun route, balancy and thin at times. Solid 5.10- in my opinion.

By Jared Spaulding
From: Central WY
Oct 14, 2008

Just 8 bolts to a solid two bolt anchor at about 90 feet. Fun slab climbing and much easier than the three to the left.