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Varnished Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Circle of Benevolence T 
Crank Queenie T 
Disco Sucks T 
Double Crux T 
East Meets West T 
Mosaic T 
Presence of Grace T 
With Malice and Forethought T 

Circle of Benevolence 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bob Gaines, 1995
Page Views: 494
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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the first crux, well protected, unlike the move to...


Start just right of With Malice and Forethought and climb up past a horizontal crack to reach a face with two bolts. Cut left to join With Malice and Forethought after the second bolt and belay from a ledge.

Good moves on clean, solid rock make this a fun climb to do if in the area.


2 bolts, pro to 2"

Photos of Circle of Benevolence Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the thin and committing second crux, although basi...
the thin and committing second crux, although basi...

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By Bob Gaines
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

At the first bolt, instead of climbing straight up the slab (10+), you can also traverse right, then up (5.10-) for an easier variation to reach the second bolt. After clipping the second bolt, move down a few feet, then move left at a horizontal seam (5.10b/c, height dependent) to reach a fin of rock that is liebacked to easier climbing and the rap slings. Rap 90 ft.

This route has some of the best rock in Indian Cove campground.
By Richard Shore
Dec 23, 2012

Excellent rock quality! A #1 Camalot protects the move to the first bolt. Heady getting to the second bolt, but some small gear behind a marginal flake provides some mental pro for the move.
By Ralph Swansen
From: Denver CO
Oct 26, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Slinged horn is gone. We found a class 4 down climb right. Straight between bolts 1&2 felt like 11a.

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