10b atop the boulder and 10c from the ground. Move into a sidepull sloper on the 2nd bolt and go to a huge pocket just right of the 3rd bolt. Reposition your feet and turn that pocket into an undercling, roll your body up and over the first shelf and you can rest on the ledge before making the final moves. The top is very juggy but becomes reachy with good feet all the way to the shuts.
Holiday Block. far left route and easiest one on the face next to Plush and Never Believe
Standard rack; open shuts for anchors.
Mike on the climb formerly known as Cinco de Mayo ...
Bradley Killough pushing for the top.
Jamie finishing up Cinco de Mayo
From: Decatur, GA
Dec 1, 2008
The comments previously posted in this route description have been moved to the Southern States forum as a message thread.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Dec 2, 2008
A bomb for style. Luckily, that can be remidied.
|By Will S|
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 3, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Did this on gear in the mid 90s, I recall it being well protected and enjoyable climbing. Absolutely no reason to bolt this. 2/5 for the climbing, bomb rating for the unnecesassy retrobolting.
Dec 4, 2008
concur on above...can someone take that pic of JA off the intro page? makes me ill
From: Decatur, GA
Dec 4, 2008
NOTE: this route was originally established as a gear line and was recently retrobolted. Since the FA has stated his intention to restore the route to its orginal state, I've removed all sport/bolt references in the route description. The correct name Cinco de Mayo has also been restored.
Apr 2, 2009
its an awkward thang, blocky, i doubt itll ever get climbed on gear agian, except maybe for nostalgia, and if JA had a reason to bolt it it was probably a good one, All hail the Duke!
|By Chris Blanchard|
May 8, 2010
The new route name for this is Don't Trad On Me. Cinco de Mayo is the old trad name, but since it has been bolted Johnny Arms (who named it the first time), renamed it to Don't Trad On Me.
|By Swamp Cookie|
From: da Bayou
Aug 9, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Interesting history. What a great route. Jonnny said he bolted it because it wasn't getting climbed. Now somebody is always on it when I pass by.
Jun 26, 2012
Bolts or not, a really fun route. I've never led it completely clean, but I love to try at the end of climbing days when everyone else had cashed out. Well done Johnny Arms, one of my favorite routes at sand rock.
From: Clemson, S.C.
Aug 22, 2012
Having done this one on gear, I would say a bolt at the crux is not a bad idea. The gear placement to protect the first big roof move is in a very pebbly pocket. If this gear were to rip because of one of the pebbles dislodging, it would surely kill or seriously jack up the leader because of that giant boulder looming in the fall zone.
|By Mateo F.|
Dec 6, 2012
I love Johny Arms, but he didnt get the FA. I believe thats reserved for Atlanta hardman Shannon Stegg.
Mar 21, 2013
Right open shut is a spinner but seems ok. Did it on bolts, looking forward to doing it on gear.