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Working the moves on Cinch Crack.
If this thing were on the ground, it'd make for a great boulder problem, but unfortunately it's about 20 feet high, so you should probably rope up. Cinch Crack is the obvious, overhanging splitter (out a sort of roof/prow) low on Hawk-Eagle Ridge, just before the chimney downclimb that deposits you in the big gully by Wind Tower.
A fixed pin w/ some tat and a fixed Alien can be supplemented with trad pro. Hard moves and long reaches gain the lip. Head up the crack to a double-bolt anchor (1/4") or better yet, down climb and down aid to get your gear back.
This is Old school 5.12b, meaning hard as hell!
This pitch is short so you don't need much. Metolius blue, yellow (double-up) orange and black to back up the fixed mank.
BETA PHOTO: An overview of the routes here on this chunk of ro...
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Feb 10, 2009
I tried this many years ago on toprope. I thought it was a very tongue-in-cheek name at the time and only made it up the thing with numerous "hangs". I was told at the time that it was 5.10.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 30, 2011
The webbing in the belay/rap station above this pitch is currently in pretty bad shape (5/29/11) and should be replaced/refreshed. If you head up there to do Cinch Crack, please take some extra.