One of my personal favorites at The Gym, Cimmaron Lanes starts up just right of the block/dihedral that will greet you 50 ft right of the end of the trail. Run technical edges and pockets for 80 ft to reach a belay. Most parties bail out after finishing this crux pitch, however, the second pitch although modest is a real kick. Surmount the intimidating bulge above the belay on big pockets, bomber gear (a bit committing), and fun moves. The anchor is on the lip-like-ledge above.
Frankly, this line needs to be done in both pitches because the first pitch, alone, is not sufficiently distinguished from a slew of other 5.11 face climbs. This may give Cimmaron Lanes the amusing distinction of climbing a harder pitch just to get to the easy pitch.
Eight to ten draws and a rope. Double bolt belay anchors are present at the top of each pitch. One can descend from the top to the ground with double ropes.
I think, Mark, you are talking about dropping the right hand into the crux pocket (?). I have a positive 8 inch ape index, and was not overly stressed to reach it. Again, if I recollect correctly, this was not a problem of toes-to-tips reach. I do recall the high step gambit, but did not log the exact move in my notes. I think either will work - if you have the wing-span it is probably easier to make the stretch.
By Mike Anderson From: Dayton, OH Mar 21, 2005 rating: 5.11d7a24VIII25E5 6a
I'm sure I was doing the move wrong, but I thought the crux of this route was extremely hard, more on par with the other 12's at Shelf. Who knows, I was climbing it in direct sunlight. It is a very good route though.
By b hof From: Pueblo West, CO Nov 30, 2013 rating: 5.11d7a24VIII25E5 6a
I agree with Mike, the crux on this thing felt hard for the grade and would make for a proud on sight.
By KCP From: Eldorado Springs, CO Aug 12, 2014 rating: 5.11d7a24VIII25E5 6a
Excellent face climbing! I didn't notice anything reachy on this route. I'm just shy of 6', with a 3+ ape-index. It felt no harder than 11+ to me. I use routes like Gym Arete (Shelf), Fire & Ice (Eldo), Ricochet (Rifle), etc. as bench-marks for 12a, which all feel harder to me than Cimmaron Lanes.