Cima Scotoni - South West Face Lacedelli
||Trad, Aid, Alpine, 16 pitches, 1300', Grade IV
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a A1 [details]|
|FA: ||Lino Lacedelli, Luigi Ghedina, Guido Lorenzi 1952|
|Season: ||Summer, Early fall|
|Page Views: ||532|
|Submitted By: ||Tim Wolfe on Mar 2, 2011|
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Beautiful pockets on great rock after the first ma...
Description general: This is a beautiful line in a pretty little valley with consistently moderate/difficult climbing not much loose, easy stuff in the way of purely pleasant climbing on compact limestone. There is one very difficult pitch that can be easily passed with a two short sections of aid climbing and some 5.10 free climbing. This pitch should not lead you to avoiding the route. The upper pitches off the ledge are wonderful.
Pitch 1 60 m III: Start on low angle spur to the left of a yellow black overhanging wall below the right end of the first ledge on top of pitch 6. Climb the spur easily from the right to the left.
Pitch 2 30 m IV+: Climb a left slanting grey crack until the climbing gets more difficult.
Pitch 3 30 m VI+ AO or 5.12 (VIII-): Climb the short/groove yellow crack to the overhanging difficult free climbing or aid climbing section to a stance.
Pitch 4 40 m VI-: Climb right across a black wall past a niche then left to a stance at the base of a dihedral.
Pitch 5 40 m V+: Climb the dihedral and step left
Pitch 6 40 m V: Climb the fragile rock up the next dihedral to a crawling traverse left under a roof leads to the first major ledge.
Pitch 7 70 m 3rd class: Go left to belay pitons.
Pitch 8 25 m V: Climb the vertical wall by a crack going obliquely left trending just left of an overhang
Pitch 9 35 m V+: Move right to a white dihedral and climb it, exiting right near the top and traversing 10 meters horizontally to a stance at the foot of a grey wall.
Pitch 10 40 m IV+: Climb up the grey wall and traverse right a fair distance to ledges.
Pitch 11 40 m VI-: Do not climb left, instead climb right, then straight up, then left.
Pitch 12 30 m VI-: Climb up to the roof, step right to a dihedral and climb it then go left on a steep slab to a stance to the right of a yellow broken dihedral.
Pitch 13 30 m VI-: Climb the yellow dihedral through a bulge to a stance on the right
Pitch 14 35 m VI-: Climb over an overhang then traverse right across a rib to a stance near a niche.
Pitch 15 50 m IV: Move right and past an overhang to reach easier rock and the second ledge
Pitch 16 Either traverse left all the way off the second ledge or go left 60 meters and climb the final 200 meters to the top on a right slanting ramp system.
Location: The wall is split by two terraces. The lower terrace ends at the center of the face at a roof which marks the top of the initial corner system. Start on the easily angled spur and climb your way up towards the prominent corner.
Approach From Passo Falzarego drive north west down the hill on the Val Parola (road SP24 then on SP 37) to the valley bottom just beyond the last big hairpin as you enter the Valley floor there is a road to the right (heading east) that goes to a parking lot at a trail to Rifugio Scotoni and at Capanna Alpina. Park at the end of this road. Hike to Rifugio Scotoni and continue beyond the hut on the path to Lagazuoi lake until below the mountain. Leave the path and scramble over the rubble to the base of the South-West face. trailbehind.com/Cima%20Scotoni...
Descent Traverse north west along the side of the mountain to reach the scree and continue traversing along it to the col between Cima Scotini and Torre di Lago. From there descend the path (Dolomite High route #1) into the valley below and down to the hut (1.5 hours) and from there down the valley to the parking lot.
Protection: Standard Dolomite rack - bring 1 set of camming units ½ inch to 3.5 inches, one set of wired stoppers, a selection of threads, many long slings and free carabiners to reduce rope drag.
Approaching Cima Scotini in the dawn light
Susan Wolfe climbing the crux 5.12a/5.10 A1 pitch ...
BETA PHOTO: View up Canyon at the great west faces on Lagazuoi...
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