|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 1100', Grade IV|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Comici, Varale, Zanutti|
|Season:||Summer, Early Fall|
|Submitted By:||Tim Wolfe on Mar 2, 2011|
|Comments on Cima Piccola South Arete Yellow edge||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Storrs, CT
Sep 26, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
A few things.
1) This climb is totally awesome. Get it!
2) The route description here is one of about 100 ways to get up there. Get a good topo, follow the general trend, and look for pins or new bolts to anchor belays. Many regions of the climb are wide open for your creativity. There are bizillions of bolts and anchors set up all over this rock, so don't assume you're "on route" if you're at some shiney new anchors.
3) Bring a singe rack of cams to 3" and a rack of nuts. While some guide books say "all protection and belay pegs are in place", on-route protection is only available where the climbing is hard (and sometimes not even!), and some anchors are very, very old and bad, especially the belay after the second pitch of VI, so backing up is desirable (and possible with some small gear).
4) Gaining the rappel anchors for descent is no fun -- DON'T do this in the dark. Traverse around the SW of the summit toward the the NW. Climb down to some decent ledges, then up an easy, and comfortable 4th class chimney/corner. Make one short rappel back down to the ledge and around a thin bulge. Here's how we did this. The "leader" rapped to the ledge, then led the sketchy traverse about 10 metres to the comfy ledge and built an anchor. The "follower" rapped, pulled the rope, then followed on belay. Make ~6-60m raps to the gully, then one 60m rap past the glacier.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Dec 19, 2013
Rifugio Auronzo starts @ 22 Euros per person (2013/dorm/no pension). Showers are 5 Euros. Check at the toll booth for the cost of caravan camping. Cost-cutting rental car/tent bivouacs may be possible too. The parking lot had restrooms, but they are closed at night. The hut has a bar.
APPROACH TO SPIGALO GIALLO (Yellow Edge)
We made about ten rappels to the Cima Piccola-Cima Grande col using a single 70 meter rope. I'm pretty sure a single 50m or 60m would work. From the col, we down-climbed the snow-filled couloir in our rock shoes. Lucky for us there were big steps already kicked into the snow.
After climbing a sport route left of Spigalo Giallo, a team of local gnarlers just soloed the above described Piccolissimo to Cima Picolla traverse. Another team on the steep yellow wall left of the Spigalo Giallo rappelled the wall with double 7mm ropes (5.11b I may have heard). What they did looked super convenient yet terrifying; like rappelling the right side of the Diamond (CO).
By Henry AB
Jul 16, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
We did this route in 13 pitches, which appears to be the standard number. There seemed to be established belays (using bolts or fixed gear) at the end of every pitch.
Pitch 7 is a traverse straight left on a ledge for about 50 feet. I initially got this pitch wrong and started traversing left on the wrong ledge. The correct ledge has a horizontal crack than runs along the length of the ledge.
We brought single C4s .5-4. The #4 was not necessary but everything else was handy. X4s and small offset cams were also useful. I brought a pink and red tricam, but I don't think I ever placed either.
The key to the descent, I think, is to just traverse left. There is a ledge system that will take you to a grassy plateau at the base of the true summit tower of Cima Piccola. The first rappel station is visible from this plateau. Another commenter mentions fourth class down/up climbing to get to the rappels, but I don't recall that. I remember the traverse as being moderate but exposed.