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Type:  Trad, Ice, 7 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Consensus: WI3-4 [details]
FA: Glen Gilley, Henry Barber 197?
Season: December-March
Page Views: 10,712
Submitted By: Patrick Bagley on Nov 14, 2007

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Cilley-Barber in winter 2002.

Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit


This broad snow and ice gulley is the most distinct line in the Chimney Pond Cirque of the Katahdin Massif. When I did it, there was more ice and less snow than usual. The first two pitches are usually ice climbing at NEI2-3. These top out into a large bowl-like snow gulley that continues for the majority of the climb. Simul over some ice bulges and steep snow for a couple hundred of feet. The crux pitch is somewhere around what would be Pitch 9. This pitch can have wind-swept overhanging mushrooms of ice, but we were able to skirt around them. The last two or so pitches are cruiser snowy and rocky climbing. Top out to the infamous Knife Edge Ridge.


The route is the most obvious line up to the Knife's Edge, topping out to climber's left of Baxter Peak. Approach via the inlet creek to Chimney Pond. Descend via Cathedral trail if visibility is good. Otherwise, continue along the ridge and descend the Saddle Trail.

Bring and use a map and compass.


Standard ice rack.

Photos of Cilley-Barber Slideshow Add Photo
Topping out on the Cilley-Barber
Topping out on the Cilley-Barber
The crux pitch.
BETA PHOTO: The crux pitch.
The line.
BETA PHOTO: The line.
looking twords the armadillo from the crux ice on ...
looking twords the armadillo from the crux ice on ...
The Cilley-Barber route is the weakness up the hea...
The Cilley-Barber route is the weakness up the hea...
Below the Crux ice
Below the Crux ice
2 pitchs below the Crux ice mushroom
2 pitchs below the Crux ice mushroom
Cilly Barber crux
Cilly Barber crux

Comments on Cilley-Barber Add Comment
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By Artem Lebedev
From: Santa Monica, CA
May 19, 2008
rating: WI4- PG13

Small rock rack is very helpful, especially on the pitches above the crux. Used BD Cam # 1 and #2, set of nuts.
By Spencer N
From: Dover, NH
Aug 11, 2012

According to Yankee Rock & Ice (p. 267), Henry Barber and Dave Cilley did the FA in 1973.
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