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Cigarillo 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 28'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: ???
Page Views: 124
Submitted By: Top Rope Hero on Oct 17, 2011

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Description 

Sustained, steep, multi-rest climbing up a massive, blackened cigar of a tufa pipe. Where else but in Kaly. (Beware the seepage! Can be Niagra wet in the spring or after a major rainfall.)

Scramble up past a few bolts into a micro cave, clip, and then put on your cape; time to get super. Crank out of the cave on jugs then move over and mount the mighty Cigarillo. Crux might be figuring out which side of the pipe to trend. Up and know glory, young leader.

Now take off the cape and put on your diaper: Both anchor bolts are hideously rusted. Thankfully, they're tied off to the anchors of Aegean Sea, right next door, with a mankey, sun-rotted, POS rope. Good luck! Have fun!

I hear rumors that there's a 7000m extension to the top of the wall. But really, who climbs runout 8a+ (13c) anyway?!?

Location 

Extreme left side of Panorama, on top of the pedestal where you could spit on the mob gathered below, queueing up for Monahiki Elia, the great Grand Grotto gimme.

Protection 

Eleven bolts to anchors that SHOULD hold the weight of a couple of skinny, feral cats. Beyond that, I make no guarantees.


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