Ciao Vecchio  5.11a

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  Andrea & Silvia Minneto, 1999 Submitted By:  Top Rope Hero on Oct 25, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Ciao Vecchio - Er.....OK, rats. Can't remember if ...

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Description 

Ciao Vecchio means, "good-bye to problem solving."

Named so because, apparently, the chalk gremlins have come out en mass to show you, step by step, tick mark by tick mark, which holds to grab. Stevie Wonder could red point this climb. Ciao is so well mapped out, in fact, that personally I'd drop it a grade, maybe two. (But I'll let the official "11a" grade stand here. Just sayin' it's REAL soft.)

Move up a low-angle ramp until the wall steepens and the pockets deepen. Paint by numbers up the tick marks, roll up until the wall hangs over, then pop right into a shallow, micro dihedral with good edges. Clip, then do please try to scratch out all the road signs on the way down. Pee on the wall if you have to.

Location 

Just up from the "Atena Wall," low on the shady, northern facing side of Odyssey. About a dozen lines up from the very first line on Odyssey, Ciao Vecchio is well-marked in near the base of the wall.

Protection 

About 10 plus quickdraws with a 2-bolt/2-'biner anchor. Moves are etched in brail.

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Ciao, Sean, ciao!

Originally, Ciao was lavished with a "6c+ (11c/d)"...