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 ADVANCED
Daff Dome, Main Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bearded Clam T 
Blown Away T 
Bombs over Tokyo (1st pitch) T 
Chvchichaschtli S 
Cooke Book T 
Crescent Arch T 
El Condor T 
Grey Ghost T 
Plagiarism T 
R.C.A. T 
R.C.A. (1st pitch) T 
West Crack T 
West of the Witch S 
Witch of the West S 
Unsorted Routes:

Chvchichaschtli 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Christian Seger, Peter Dorfel, Sigi Siegel 1990
Season: Afternoon sun
Page Views: 128
Submitted By: john durr on Aug 15, 2014

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Description 

Less scary than its neighbors, still not a sport climb, this fun route has "unusual" looking bolts and fun climbing with a somewhat contrived crux.

P1: Beautiful rock leads up from a sandy belay ledge with a couple evergreen trees past 5 bolts to a two bolt belay. (5.10a ~100 feet)

P2: Continue up past several more bolts heading for a slick gold polish patch. At the second to last bolt, it may be a little easier to cut right and up small but better edges to the ledge. Bolted belay. (5.10d/5.11a ~100 feet)

Rappel the route with 70 meter rope, a 60m Works but just barely.

Location 

Between R.C.A and Grey Ghost on the west face of Daff Dome. From evergreen tree ledge to evergreen ledge.

Protection 

Quick draws for apparently good, large bolts. Bolted anchors. I left the anchors set up with quick links & rap rings last week 8/14.


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By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Aug 29, 2014

Crazy looking, strange bolts? Thanks for the quick links and rings, John.