Climb the flared chimney, around the corner to the right of "Church Bowl Chimney", to the terrace.
Pro to 3".
Dec 29, 2009
I find a 4" piece useful at the bottom.
|By Mark P Thomas|
Feb 7, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
I'm all for fighting grade creep, but at least in relative terms, compared to other 5.8 chimneys I've climbed in the valley, and the 5.9 squeeze section of the final 20' of Generator Crack (according to SuperTopo), this was MUCH harder physically and technically!
Hmm, or maybe I should have attempted to jam the inside crack more - but that seemed like less fun :-D
Really fun and aggressively flared. It is a tad wet near the top in winter, but still doable.
From: Rocklin, Ca
Jun 19, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
I agree Mark, I found the second pitch on this climb to be pretty sustained and physical for the grade, having climbed the higher graded Church Bowl Tree and Revival on the same day. The 20' of twin cracks towards the top of P2 felt much harder than I expected them to be. Was huffing and puffing a little bit when I got to the ledge. Would probably only recommend this climb for solid 9 leaders, but would truly recommend this climb. Taking the third pitch finish to Bishops Terrace is very unique.
Jun 19, 2012
Being able to climb this type of crack is a requirement for passage up many climbs in Yosemite. And here it is at ground level next to a parking lot, picnic table, and pooper! This climb was established by a young, up and coming Bird, during a time when the 5.8 rating meant it was just a tad easier than the hardest thing around.