Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Monster Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bandersnatch S 
Caliban S 
Cerberus S 
Chupacabra S 
Cookie Monster S 
Cyclops S 
Godzilla Meets Bambi S 
Grendal S 
Hippalectryon S 
Jeckyll and Hyde S 
Kraken T 
Mighty Mouse T 
Mike Wazowski (of Monsters Inc.) S 
Monster Slayer S 
Ogopogo S 
Pegasus S 
Predator  S 
Scream Queen S 
Scuttlebutt T 
Stay Puft S 
Swamp Thing T 
Werepig S 

Chupacabra 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Josh Smith, James Hunter
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,642
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Mar 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Above the good rest ledge on Chupacabra heading in...

Description 

Sustained with some thin moves and potential for big safe air up high.

Intricate and bouldery moves past the first two bolts lead to a great jug for the third bolt clip. Climbing right of the bolt line for a couple more bolts, a sneaky mono undercling can be used to get the small ledge for the fourth bolt clip. Hard moves using a creaky flake (don't pull too hard) lead to a reachy and hard fifth clip [fixed project draw as of 10/1/2013] if you have to hang the draw (or just get psyched mentally and go past the fifth bolt to a clipping hold in the crack.)

Take a nice, long no-hands rest on the generous ledge and crank up and left of the bolt line on a couple sloper holds for hands and feet (easier if taller) past the sixth and seventh bolts. Intricate moves get you back to the right and up to the anchors on good crimps.


Location 

Just left of the Mighty Mouse crack.


Protection 

8 bolts to a chains equipped with lowering carabiners.



Comments on Chupacabra Add Comment
Show which comments
By HoseBeats
Apr 16, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

A long move off of a crimp with marginal feet, at the second bolt was the crux for me. The tick marks I ended up following wove right then back left, to avoid the rather blank sections.
Beware a giant, creaky halfmoon shaped jug/sidepull that could go at any moment.
A no hands rest allows you to get all the juice back for the top.

By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jul 31, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Agreed, I thought the crux was the long, hard sequence between bolts two and three, though the pumpy climbing (and hard 5th clip) just before the rest might be the redpoint crux. It's also hard enough near the top that you might take a heartbreaking whipper with the chains in sight!

8 bolts to chains equipped with lowering carabiners (don't steal these!).

By Jean
Jun 25, 2012

beware the crumbling undercling between the 4th and 5th bolt, it probably won't be there for too long.