Chupacabra 5.12b/c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12 [details] |
| FA: | Josh Smith, James Hunter |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Josh Smith on Mar 22, 2009 |
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Above the good rest ledge on Chupacabra heading in...
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Description Sustained with some thin moves and potential for big safe air up high.
Location Just left of the Mighty Mouse crack.
Protection 8 bolts to a chains equipped with lowering carabiners (don't steal these!)
By HoseBeats
Apr 16, 2009
rating: 5.12b
| A long move off of a crimp with marginal feet, at the second bolt was the crux for me. The tick marks I ended up following wove right then back left, to avoid the rather blank sections.
Beware a giant, creaky halfmoon shaped jug/sidepull that could go at any moment.
A no hands rest allows you to get all the juice back for the top. |
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jul 31, 2010
rating: 5.12a/b
| Agreed, I thought the crux was the long, hard sequence between bolts two and three, though the pumpy climbing (and hard 5th clip) just before the rest might be the redpoint crux. It's also hard enough near the top that you might take a heartbreaking whipper with the chains in sight!
8 bolts to chains equipped with lowering carabiners (don't steal these!). |
By Jean
Jun 25, 2012
| beware the crumbling undercling between the 4th and 5th bolt, it probably won't be there for too long. |
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