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YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Josh Smith, James Hunter
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,904
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Mar 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Above the good rest ledge on Chupacabra heading in...


Sustained with some thin moves and potential for big safe air up high.

Intricate and bouldery moves past the first two bolts lead to a great jug for the third bolt clip. Climbing right of the bolt line for a couple more bolts, a sneaky mono undercling can be used to get the small ledge for the fourth bolt clip. Hard moves using a creaky flake (don't pull too hard) lead to a reachy and hard fifth clip with a fixed cable draw. Take a nice, long no-hands rest on the generous ledge and crank up and left of the bolt line on a couple sloper holds for hands and feet (easier if taller) past the sixth and seventh bolts. Intricate moves get you back to the right and up to the anchors on good crimps.


Just left of the Mighty Mouse crack.


8 bolts to a chains equipped with lowering carabiners.

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By HoseBeats
Apr 16, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

A long move off of a crimp with marginal feet, at the second bolt was the crux for me. The tick marks I ended up following wove right then back left, to avoid the rather blank sections.
Beware a giant, creaky halfmoon shaped jug/sidepull that could go at any moment.
A no hands rest allows you to get all the juice back for the top.
By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Jul 31, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Agreed, I thought the crux was the long, hard sequence between bolts two and three, though the pumpy climbing (and hard 5th clip) just before the rest might be the redpoint crux. It's also hard enough near the top that you might take a heartbreaking whipper with the chains in sight!

8 bolts to chains equipped with lowering carabiners (don't steal these!).
By Jean
Jun 25, 2012

beware the crumbling undercling between the 4th and 5th bolt, it probably won't be there for too long.
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