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Start by standing on the rock pile, or make it a possible 5.13b by beginning at the apex of the back of the cave. Then follow the bolt line through the center of the cave as the sharp flares burn your fingers and drain your tank. At the end, get the "JUG" and clip, take a deep breath and pull out over the roof. Then follow about 20 feet of seemingly steep slab and open hand. Beware of crumbly rock and chalk X it when you can.
Around the corner from "You can Tune a Piano..." there is an obvious cave. Look for bolts up the center of the cave.
Seven bolts to anchor, well protected though bouldering pad may prove mentally comforting
Apr 12, 2010
The route was a two star because although I failed on it this trip I thought it was fun, Ellington's guidebook gave it one star...finish it and let us know what you think.