Chunky Tuna 5.5
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.5 [details] |
| FA: | Richard Meining |
| Submitted By: | Steve Marr on Oct 5, 2006 |
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Description Chunky Tuna is located just to the right of Pro Sweat. This easy climb follows the long, arching overlap towards a headwall at the top. There is good protection (mainly small cams and stoppers) found all the way along the route. About two-thirds of the way up, you have to step over a small (4-6") flake. If there was a crux on the route, this was it. Continue up to the steep headwall with a slot to the right (Caver's Nightmare). There are no anchors on this route.
Protection Standard rack, no anchors.
Descent To descend, climb to the top of the slot (Caver's Nightmare), and either walk off the dome (if you’re done for the day or leaving the back side), or traverse left and down to the anchors right of Pro Sweat, and rappel (60m rope).
Per Stan Jones:
There are two rap stations easier to access than the Pro Sweat anchors. After climbing out of Caver's Nightmare, stay high and go left about 100 yds past a large tree to the boulders at the top of News Wall to find the anchors just below the boulders. A 50m rope is just long enough.
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Apr 18, 2008
| It's low angle enough that one can even down climb at the point Caver's Nightmare crack begins, although newer leaders might not want to do that. This is a great route to learn gear placements on, as you are solid in each stance as you traverse. |
By Stan Jones
From: Benbrook, TX
Feb 25, 2009
rating: 5.5
| Good route for a novice, which I am.
There are two rap stations easier to access than the Pro Sweat anchors. After climbing out of Cavers Nightmare, stay high and go left about 100 yds past a large tree to the boulders at the top of News Wall to find the anchors just below the boulders. A 50m rope is just long enough. |
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