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 ADVANCED
Foothill Crag ("The Foot")
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Bolts T,TR 
Blown Out T 
Chummin' for Splatter S 
Clean Sweep T,TR 
Crack, The T 
From the Ashes S 
I Love L.A. S 
Magic Feather S 
Moon Doggies T 
Ruthless Poodles S,TR 
Sob Story T 
Teetering TR 

Chummin' for Splatter 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mrazek, Martin (1987)
Page Views: 630
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 28, 2006

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On just her third trip climbing outdoors, thirteen...

Description 

Chummin' follows a line 15 feet left of I Love LA.

Super fun and reasonably-protected 5.9 face climbing past two bolts gains a massive ledge.

A reachy, 5.11 move gets you off the ledge. A few more moves gains another smaller ledge (and a good rest before pulling the roof). A couple of balancy moves (5.11b), with your left hand on the arete, lead to easier ground and then to the anchor.

Protection 

This route is seriously runout at the crux. Any gear that might be placed is marginal. This is really only a toprope...and even then, significant swing-potential makes pulling the crux a thought-provoking endeavor.

I've explored placing a directional but none of the rock above the crux is hard enough to hold a bolt.

Update: 4 protection bolts and 2 anchor bolts were replaced 9/99 by Reese Martin.


Photos of Chummin' for Splatter Slideshow Add Photo
Just after pulling the roof
Just after pulling the roof
Pulling the roof on TR
Pulling the roof on TR

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