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 ADVANCED
The East Quarry
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asbury Park T,TR 
Battle of the Bulbus S 
Bertha S 
Bluesfish S 
Chum S,TR 
Crack  T 
Deepwater Horizon S 
Defective Agency S 
Emilia's Corner T 
Flying Fish S 
Goonch, The TR 
Great Wide Shark T 
Hairless Dog S 
Hammerhead T 
Herringbone T 
Herringbone Direct  T 
High Tide S 
Holy Mackerel S 
Isle of Mouse T,TR 
Jaws T 
Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) T 
Land Shark T 
Narrow Face T,TR 
Natural Born Topropers T,S,TR 
Nurse Shark T 
Old Man and the Sea S 
Old Man And The Sea Direct S 
Pigeon of the Sea S 
Pinkerton S 
Pinnacle 2 T,TR 
Play With Your Balls T 
Pretzel Logic S 
S.S. Minnow T 
Sand Dollar  S 
Sand Shark T 
Sea Robin T 
Sea Urchin T 
Slap Happy S 
Tendonkey Punch S 
Tiger Shark T 
Tiger's Woody S 
Viagra Crack T 
Weakfish S,TR 
Wooly Bully S 

Chum 

YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mike Cichon
New Route: Yes
Season: any
Page Views: 1,974
Submitted By: mike c on Jan 15, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Drilling stance....

Location 

This is the steep face just right of Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) and left of Herringbone Direct .

Description 

This was bolted on lead off hooks and beaks. Hard! Stay on the face and off the adjacent routes or it's much easier than suggested....

Protection 

S. s. bolts! 4 and an anchor.


Photos of Chum Slideshow Add Photo
Hookin' a pebble....
Hookin' a pebble....
Smooth and steep, bolted on lead ground up...what ...
Smooth and steep, bolted on lead ground up...what ...
Hooked....
Hooked....
Undercling cam hook and backup Talon....
Undercling cam hook and backup Talon....
Dicey rail hookin'....
Dicey rail hookin'....
The line?
The line?

Comments on Chum Add Comment
Show which comments
By mike c
From: nederland
May 3, 2011

I'm not sure of the grade...it can feel 11d and it can feel 12d. It just depends on the humidity and how good your balance is...super fun! The hardest thing I've done, I think. At first I thought it could be 13a, but after a few attempts I feel that would be too far a stretch. I do feel it's a little harder than Ten Digit Dialing though...have fun.
By Pinklebear
Feb 2, 2012

Tough and sustained—I like, is NICE!
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Mar 8, 2014
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

This is a great route that is really sustained. I personally thought this was harder than Tiger's Woody, but maybe it's the technical subtleties that make it feel harder. Like Mike said, when I first tried the route, it felt like 13a, but once I unlocked some key beta, it felt slightly easier. Thanks for the route!
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 25, 2015

Felt worlds harder than all the other 12+'s I have done at the crag. It could be that it was way too hot, it could be that it was covered in dust and dirt, or it could be that the climb is hard for the vertically challenged. Everything felt like a reach and I had to resort to some dynamic tactics. Sustained and a good one for sure....