Chucklehead Crack 

Also known as "Spikes Crack" in the Ryan Hansen guidebook. FA in that book "Jeff Avercamp, 1985".

So this is what the slinged bolts were for! I kept going straight at the ledge just right of Air. Bad idea, pro was bad and rock was suspect.

I then topped out over Air and rapped off the chain anchors for this climb. Plenty of rope left over with a 70m.

This route should not be missed! The crack in the beginning is great and offers good pro. Fun movement. The second pitch is an amazing chimney with some off-width moves as well. Chains on top to the right of the chimney. I'd say like 5.7 for the second pitch. Great pro all the way and fun climbing all the way. A bit taller than air. Had to double rap with a 60m.

The 2nd pitch belay anchor has new slings, and the slings aren't directly through the hangers anymore. Good climb, great views.

Pretty sure we did the first ascent, had to clean a ton of ferns / moss out of that thing. Also did the line to the right, as well as the thin buttress to the left. The line on the left required pulling a tiny roof on holds that seemed ready to snap... I wonder if they are still there.

The thing should be rated 5.7, it's far easier than the fingercrack on the first pillar at the beginning pf the crag (formerly known as hydroponics)

Does anyone konw what the second direct pitch is rated? I'd probably say 5.8ish. We got on the route yesterday not actually knowing what route we were on logically went straight up for pitch two. While there is a 5-10' section where the rock quality is poor this should not be missed.

Very good route, great movement and pro. I used nothing bigger than a #3 Camalot for the top pitch. The chimney is, in my opinion, the better of the two pitches although the 1st pitch is where the route gets the grade. Rapped off with two 60's as another party did air and then we beer partied on top of the spire and yelled, "Hooooeeeeesssss!" to the boaters below- very obnoxious, I know, but it was 4th of July celebratory.