Chuckie's Torture V9
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BETA PHOTO: Chuckie's Torture starts just to the right of the ...
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Description This problem starts to the left of Jugs. It starts sitting with a few holds in a low horizontal crack. A very long and tenuous move to a flat, half-pad crimper gets you going. Then you have to use your technical prowess to tick-tack your feet and hands up...until you can gain the monster jug in the middle of the rock. A mantle on this hold is needed to top out. This is a great challenge of fingerstrength and footwork.
Location To the left Jugs - on the first boulder that you approach by hiking up the well defined trail from the left side of the Lower Slabs to the Upper Cliff.
Protection Crashpad
| Comments on Chuckie's Torture |
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By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Sep 25, 2008
| "Very long" is right! I'm just under 5'11" with a +1 ape index and I'm not sure I can make the reach. |
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Apr 11, 2011
rating: V9
| A hold recently broke, leaving a slightly more friendly edge and a slightly shorter reach from the underclings. Getting to the jug after the crimps is still a massive dyno for me. |
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Apr 11, 2011
| That news might reinvigorate my interest in this problem, Mr. Dalhaus. |
By Matt Desenberg
From: Wells, Me
Mar 29, 2012
rating: V8-9
| I sent this last week and was able to highstep and get a toe on the crack of jugs. I don't know if this was V9, but I've seen five people send this and they all did it like that. V8?
This was very dependent on body position, and is probably easier if you are taller. |
By Christian Prellwitz
Jun 28, 2012
| Bryce-- I'm a bit confused about this problem. Is the creaky but good flake to the right 'on'? Or do you go straight off the underclings to the small crimps above and not use the flake out right? |
By Rodriguez
From: Durham, NH
Jul 2, 2012
| I think the "creaky flake" out right is in, but what I'm not sure about is the use of the starting horizontal crack of Jugs (V3) out right as a foot. I've seen it used in videos and Matt mentioned using it above, but I've heard mixed opinions on whether its supposed to be in or not. Perhaps it feels more like V8 if you use it, versus the given grade of V9 if you don't? If anyone knows the original sequence, I'd be curious if its in. Regardless, the movement through the crimps is great! |
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Jul 4, 2012
rating: V9
| To my knowledge, the creaky crimp is "on" however any of the holds on Jugs are "off." Before the crimp broke and became a rather large hold, it wasn't even used as part of the problem. At 5'11" I'm not long enough to do the original sequence of using the underclings to reach the crimps directly above the start. I'd give the original sequence a morpho-dependent grade of hard V9, the new sequence with the flexi crimp a soft V9 and anything involving "Jugs" a V8. |
By Christian Prellwitz
Jul 4, 2012
| Bryce (and everyone)--
Thanks for the info. It's really interesting to know the history and original beta for climbs. That all seems about right, with regards to the grades for all the different variations. Using the 'creaky flake' and the crack of 'Jugs' for a foot is arguably the most natural/least contrived of all the variations, but the direct move to the crimps above seems really cool too. However, at my height (shorter than you) it seems a bit too reachy. Anyhow, thanks for the answer. This is what Mountain Project is great for. |
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