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 ADVANCED
Corral Wall - Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Fistfull of Poodles T 
Chuck Wagon Crack T 
City Slickers TR 
Corral Crack T 
Herd Instinct T 
High Plains Drifter T 
Honky Justice T 
Only Outlaws Have Guns T 
Party in the Desert T 
Party in the West T 
Party till Ya' Puke T 
Ranch Hand T 
Report all Gunshot Wounds T 
Six-Gun by My Side T 
Way Out West TR 
Wide Ride T 
Wild Wild West S 

Chuck Wagon Crack 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Alan Bartlett, Mike Wilson and Sam Waggoner, 1990
Page Views: 543
Submitted By: Woody Stark on Oct 15, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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enjoying the solid pro

Description 

I've led this route a number of times. The first pitch is around seven and a cruise. The second pitch is problematic. Small wires get you going (5.9). The problem is the crack above. I've never been able to set satisfactory pro in the lower section of the crack. Once, after climbing it, I rapped down and spent about fifteen minutes trying to solve the problem; I failed. A fall when moving up the crack (5.8) will be a serious challenge for those lower wires. A fall here could result in never experiencing a fall again.

Protection 

Standard rack, be sure to have small wires along.


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By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Jan 5, 2015

CONDITION REPORT 
if opting to do just the 5.7 first pitch, be aware that the two-bolt anchor atop Honky Justice no longer has any slings or rap link/rings, as of 4 Jan 2015. the two anchor bolts and their hangers are still there. just add slings and link for the rap. there's no bolted rap anchor to the immediate right, but possible to traverse up and far to climber's right to the bolted rap anchor of Six-Gun By My Side
By Blake H.
Feb 25, 2006

The first part of the climb is sweet. Great pro and very interesting and sustained 7ish moves. after that, the pro looks like a total nightmare. not for this poooooosie.
By MikeP ROWCC
Feb 19, 2013

Only did the first pitch. Exited right to bolter anchor with slings. Decent climbing with good gear.
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