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This Bolt's For You 
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Unknown F 

Chubsy 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: a rodent?
Page Views: 192
Submitted By: Leo Paik on May 16, 2012
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The nest.
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a line just to the right of The Delegate that starts out in a crack system and moves right into a chimney about halfway up. The upper chimney section may be a bunch of stacked rocks on its right side, so protecting that stretch may be challenging and climbing it gives you the sense you should tread lightly. There is an interesting bird or rodent nest at the top of the chimney. You can move a short way to the left to rappel off the anchors for The Delegate.

Don't climb this unless you have a sense of adventure and ability to embrace questionable rock quality.

This was named in honor of a family Robo Dwarf hamster who required that gentle sort of touch. If it is your route, accept our apologies and let me know, so that I can give credit to where it is due.

FWIW, there is no mention of this line in P. Hubbel's Front Range Crags, M. Rolofson's 1995 Boulder Sport Climber's Guide, or M. Rolofson's Golden Rock Climbs.


Location 

This starts with a crack system just to the right of The Delegate and angles right into a chimney at mid-height.


Protection 

A standard rack to a #4 Camalot and some big hexes with an emphasis on wider gear for the chimney.

You can TR it off The Delegate with a noticeable swing potential in the chimney (which actually could be better if you peel off).



Photos of Chubsy Slideshow Add Photo
Looking for the nest.
Looking for the nest.
The route.
BETA PHOTO: The route.
Looking down the route from the chimney.
Looking down the route from the chimney.
Comments on Chubsy Add Comment
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By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Feb 19, 2013

There is only about a 10' section where the rock is suspect. It would not be fun to fall here, but the climbing is way easier than down below.

By George Bracksieck
Apr 27, 2013

Hi Leo -- led Jeana up this today. Fun, but we had to be careful not to pull on some blocks in the upper chimney. BTW, on 4/28/11, we did the first half or so of this; then, instead of angling right into the chimney of stacked blocks, we traversed left, crossing The Delegate, and finished up the obvious crack that is just left of The Delegate. The rock was generally good and felt about 5.8.