|6,372 page views|
BETA PHOTO: Chrysler Crack
Chrysler Crack is a classic off-width romp located high over the Sandstone Quarry with a beautiful splitter crack in a dihedral and two featureless faces. In the first half of the climb you can choose to lieback the crack or employ off-width jamming and in the second half the crack is wide enough to chimney. Walk off left.
Approach from Sandstone Quarry as per Sandy Corridor description. Hike the Corridor a couple hundred yards until you're about 30 yards from the end of the canyon. You'll see a (mostly dead) left-leaning pine tree. Go right here to a robbers den that pinches off into a narrow slot. Break right and up to ledges, past occasional easy fifth-class moves for about 150 feet until you arrive at the base of the climb.
There is no fixed protection on this route. Bring armloads of big cams and big bros - Camalot C4 #5 and Big Bro #3 didn't cut the mustard.
Shayne Durfee leading this huge gash, great climb!...
Is this a high end version of a Dodge?
Russ racking up. Note the custom 8" wide Hex.
Russ using a textbook foot stack near the crux
Me in the last few feet.
Jason Molina on Chrysler Crack 5.9 Jan 2012
|Comments on Chrysler Crack
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 27, 2008
fun fun fun and a must-do for any WideFriday. Clean rock lets you get in and wiggle around with little penalty of abrasions. Did I say Wide? Too wide for my 8.5 shoes. Basically unusable in any sort of a heel toe/foot stack or otherwise. Mystery OW techniques used to ascend upward but that's the fun of it.
If you're planning ahead bring the widest gear you've got and consider making something 9" + perhaps a drilled log with a sling?
|By Russ Walling|
Oct 28, 2008
Fantastic route. Something in the 9" to 12" range would be nice, but not really needed. I would suggest not falling if at all possible.
Additional info: widefetish.com/pages/route_beta.html
|By marc rosenthal|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 29, 2008
Looks like it would be arm bars and knee smears, although the foot stack is pretty cool.
Apr 19, 2010
Takes gear from a 6 Camalot to a 5 Bro, plus a small wire or two if you want. Unless you want to wedge yourself in the crack and belay, bring a few blue and yellow metolius, maybe a .75 camalot.
|By adam winslow|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 19, 2010
#6 C4 is the smallest big piece, 2 #4 bros was nice, having a #3 bro too would have been even nicer, #5 bro was unnecessary but fun to play with, a couple smallish cams for the crack in the back wall near the top (difficult to place), and a small nut for a TR directional just before exiting the crack made this an exciting but safe lead. This was my first true offwidth lead, HIGHLY recommend leading this climb!
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Dec 16, 2010
an absolute classic and must do for anyone who likes the WIDE. And, for an added bonus, there's a 5.ridiculous right next to it thats a fun TR after abusing your body in the big stuff- .11ish tech to a ridiculously hard crux that is probably not even possible.
Mar 24, 2011
At least the drill dust has finally washed off from that. Now all the great photos of Chrysler will have a line of (well-camo'd) bolts in the frame. Well, at least thanks for the fixed line. It makes getting up there just a matter of batmanning up the line. It is desperately hard, so I guess that means something, to someone. For those of us who don't climb 5.13 slab, it just obscures the view from one of the best 5.9 cracks in RR. Cheers.
Apr 5, 2012
Has that sport route to the right even bent sent? Massive lockoffs from 1/2 pad edges that would seem to grow sandier and sloppier over time.
Oct 23, 2012
This line faces north - great to do on a hot day. The gear beta here is good. No longer need to bring gear for the belay, as there are two bolts on the summit and also an anchor at the top of the route.