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Chronic 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: 
Season: All year - first 7 clips
Page Views: 2,178
Submitted By: jonah on Mar 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

The obvious line with fixed draws immediately left of Reptiles. There is always someone on this, and it's a great climb to play around on during after-work sessions.

Starts with 2 bolts of 5.9 (don't fall or you and your belayer will be really unhappy). Then the business starts with a funky undercling/mini-dihedral section on slick, techy feet. 3 more clips takes you to an OK rest on the keyboard (Californicator branches left here). Straight up on small crimps and gastons takes you up to the roof and a shake. Finishes by pulling the roof on OK crimps and up to a burly gaston move that sets you up for clipping the anchor. The redpoint crux is redpointing the beast (which I haven't).


Protection 

11 clips. A 60 will get you down, but a 70 is better for peace of mind. You will be in space way out from the ledge when you lower, so push off the tree to get back in.



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By jonah
Jul 6, 2006

I noticed yesterday that the jug you clip the first bolt from is loose. If this thing ever breaks, you and your belayer are screwed, so heads up.

By Ryan Triplett
Jul 17, 2006

Unless you clip the belay bolt :)

By Drewsky
Aug 13, 2012

The clipping jug for the first bolt continues to look more and more suspect (toaster sized piece of rock cracked ALL the way through). Definitely clip into the belay bolt until your climber has a few draws clipped!