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In his book Sky Valley Rock, Darryl Cramer writes "if closer to the road, this would be a very popular route". This route is somewhat of an Index rarity in that it is a straightforward, well-protected 5.9 sport climb. It also provides the 5.9 leader with the added bonus of being able to toprope the fun and more difficult Eso No Se Hace.
Start by getting yourself onto the ledge at the base of the route - pull on a root and claw at the dirt or traverse in on face holds.
From the starting ledge, climb up the fun and juggy flake system past several bolts. The crux comes right at the end as the wall becomes steeper and involves fun side pulls and a mantle finish to the chains.
This route is located on the right side of Shady Lane.
Bolts. Bolted anchor with chains.
By T. Miller
Jun 15, 2009
This route was recleaned in May 2009. Due to the shady nature of the crag, it can be slow to dry. Consider bringing a small brush along (grill brush, etc.) to make any necessary touch ups to keep any invading moss at bay.
Aug 7, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
this one is actually still pretty clean. fun route.