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The King Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Wack and Dangle Job 
Chronic Fixation 
Elusive Dream (pitch 1 only) 
Four Guns Blazing 
Kingdom Come 
Prince, The 

Chronic Fixation 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Patrick Purcell, Patrick Munn 9/92
Page Views: 1,166
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Jun 6, 2007
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Graham McDowell starring down the anchors trying t...

Description 

Chronic Fixation is one of the few "warm-ups" for the harder routes of this cliff. It tackles the short, but stout face 150 feet to the left of Kingdom Come.

Off the deck, engaging moves lure the climber to either side of the first two bolts, then the route sends the climber groping for positive patina along the sloping rails riddling the face. The final crux comes right below the anchor with a painful series of crimps and gastons. The route doesn't let up until you've clipped the anchors.


Location 

At the apex of the hiking trail to the cliff is a large, black detached block leaning against the cliff with a dirty crack running up the middle of it. Chronic Fixation is the line of bolts to the left of this block.


Protection 

five bolts.



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By Rafiki
Jun 10, 2007

One of my favorite sport climbs on the most impressive face in Keene Valley. Surprisingly..most of the holds on this route are pretty big, but it saves the best moves for last.

By Mitch Hoffman
From: Fonda NY
Jul 19, 2010

An awesome climb, but beware of the heat! This wall is east/southeast facing and black, making it an oven in the summer time.