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 ADVANCED
Redgarden - S Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Breed Apart T 
Anthill Direct T 
Archer McLanahan T 
Back in Black S 
Backstroke T,S 
Backtalk T,S,TR 
Black Top S 
Blackwalk T 
Book of Numbers T,S 
Bulge Indirect T 
Bulge, The T 
C'est La Fin T 
C'est La Morte T 
C'est La Vie T 
Chromium Shore T 
Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony T 
Continue-us T 
Crack Variation T 
Desdichado T,S 
Dessert T 
East Overhang TR 
East Side T 
Edge of Night, The T 
Exodus T 
Flakes, The T 
Genesis T,S 
Genuine Risk Takers T 
High Noon T,S 
Horizontal Beginnings T 
Je T'Aime T,S 
La Vie d' Pansey TR 
Le Boomerang T,S 
Left Side of Roark, The T 
Mental Cruelty TR 
Night T 
Noggin T 
Off the List (aka Genuine Risk ?) T 
Original Anthill T 
PA's Variation T 
Pansee Sauvage T,S 
Pilgrim S 
Pseudo Sidetrack T 
Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish T 
Redguard T 
Restless Nights T 
Semi-Wild T 
Semi-Wild Slab T 
Shades of Gray T 
Sticky Feet T 
To Night T 
Trinity Cracks T 
Vaporizer, The S 
Variation to Lower Meadows T 
Walk the Talk T 
Whistle Stop, The T 
Whittle Wall, The T 
Whittle Whisk T 

Chromium Shore 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Brooks and Chris Snyder, 1980
Page Views: 392
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 17, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Bill Wright arrives at the crux of the seldom-clim...

  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    This route is pretty fun, worthy of 1+ star alone, but since it is a variation of the 2nd pitch of Anthill Direct, it requires some brilliant climbing to get to it and after it. It gets 2+ stars overall. This pitch adds to Anthill Direct in terms of difficulty, and if you've done A.H.D. a few times, perhaps a 'new territory' pitch is a refreshing change. It is harder, more thought provoking, and a wee bit difficult to protect in one spot.

    P1: Climb the first few feet of Anthill Direct's second pitch, and just as it becomes a handcrack, move out and right up a clean slab to intersect a steep crack and buttress on the right. Climb a thin, dark crack and flake up past a 9+ (or perhaps 5.10, as my partner suggested) move to reach good clings and locks, then continue on good gear to the top, stepping left on a big ledge to the Anthill Direct belay. (2 pins + supplemental gear). Continue with Anthill Direct.

    Protection 

    A standard light rack predominantly below 1.5." The crux would ideally have a better directional than I got to keep the crux stopper from popping out... if you popped and it popped, you are certainly going to get hurt. I might have just lazily missed the best pro.


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    By Kevin Meyers
    Oct 27, 2012

    I read about this route in the old Ament guide and thought it sounded like a good adventure off the beaten path. So I asked my old friend Mike Brooks about it, and he just laughed. I never did do the route, because I wasn't quite sure were it went. Ament's guidebook descriptions could be kind of ambiguous.