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Redgarden - S Buttress
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A Breed Apart 
Anthill Direct 
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Blackwalk 
Book of Numbers 
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Bulge, The 
C'est La Fin 
C'est La Morte 
C'est La Vie 
Chromium Shore 
Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony 
Continue-us 
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East Side 
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Mental Cruelty 
Night 
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Off the List (aka Genuine Risk ?) 
Original Anthill 
PA's Variation 
Pansee Sauvage 
Pilgrim 
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Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish 
Redguard 
Restless Nights 
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Semi-Wild Slab 
Shades of Gray 
Sticky Feet 
To Night 
Trinity Cracks 
Vaporizer, The 
Variation to Lower Meadows 
Walk the Talk 
Whistle Stop, The 
Whittle Wall, The 
Whittle Whisk 

Chromium Shore 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Brooks and Chris Snyder, 1980
Page Views: 335
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 17, 2005
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Bill Wright arrives at the crux of the seldom-clim...
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  • Description 

    This route is pretty fun, worthy of 1+ star alone, but since it is a variation of the 2nd pitch of Anthill Direct, it requires some brilliant climbing to get to it and after it. It gets 2+ stars overall. This pitch adds to Anthill Direct in terms of difficulty, and if you've done A.H.D. a few times, perhaps a 'new territory' pitch is a refreshing change. It is harder, more thought provoking, and a wee bit difficult to protect in one spot.

    P1: Climb the first few feet of Anthill Direct's second pitch, and just as it becomes a handcrack, move out and right up a clean slab to intersect a steep crack and buttress on the right. Climb a thin, dark crack and flake up past a 9+ (or perhaps 5.10, as my partner suggested) move to reach good clings and locks, then continue on good gear to the top, stepping left on a big ledge to the Anthill Direct belay. (2 pins + supplemental gear). Continue with Anthill Direct.


    Protection 

    A standard light rack predominantly below 1.5." The crux would ideally have a better directional than I got to keep the crux stopper from popping out... if you popped and it popped, you are certainly going to get hurt. I might have just lazily missed the best pro.



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    By Kevin Meyers
    Oct 27, 2012

    I read about this route in the old Ament guide and thought it sounded like a good adventure off the beaten path. So I asked my old friend Mike Brooks about it, and he just laughed. I never did do the route, because I wasn't quite sure were it went. Ament's guidebook descriptions could be kind of ambiguous.