Great crack climb, that evolves into easy face climbing above the short crack.
Work into crack and throw a solid left handed jam in crack and use features in crack to work feet up to a smear...throw your right hand to a high crimp just outside of the crack on the right wall.
Try not to put a cam in your best jam spot.
According to Tindell, its "harder" if you stay in the crack, but I have never done it that way.
Route is on Left/West face of the Island, about 10' from the arete and the corridor.
Crack takes cams nicely (med cams at base of crack, smaller higher in crack) and plenty of placements on face above. Can set up a TR on top rather easily (have to jump across to the Island)
|By Justin Dansby|
Feb 27, 2008
I like staying only in the crack at the bottom and avoiding the jugs on the outside. If you do it this way it seems truer to grade. The bad thing is both of the jam spots are also good trad placements. I've only TR'ed it.
Jan 14, 2012
1. The purpose of the route description is to help other climbers locate the route....not to spew your move-by-move beta (GUS).
2. Gus' move-by-move beta is not actually the route, btw. The route is called Christmas CRACK, not Christmas face.
The route goes up the blocky start to a stance below the start of the crack. From the stance enter the crack and solve the puzzle to reach the top of the crack (10 feet) and exit above to easier ground.
If you climb the face (as Gus does, apparently), the route goes 5.9.
|By Nathan Self|
Mar 7, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Brutal start--one of the best climbs at Palisades.
New anchors at the top.