Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Palisades Park
Select Route:
A Little Help From My Friends T 
April Fools TR 
Boobs T,TR 
Box Lunch T 
Bubba T,TR 
Buckets T 
Burly Girls TR 
Captain Crunch T 
Captain Hook TR 
Cashmere T,TR 
Chimney T,TR 
Christmas Crack T,TR 
Corner Arete, The T,TR 
Dirty Dancing TR 
Elephant Crack T,TR 
Etheral Cathedral T,TR 
Exit Stage Left T 
Face Of A Phantom TR 
Flake Face, The TR 
Flake, The T,TR 
Foton's Finish T,TR 
Hard Days Night TR 
Jumping Jack Flash T 
Kiddie Crack T,TR 
Kodiak Arrest TR 
Lady Fingers T,TR 
Lead This? TR 
Marginal Monster (M&M) T,TR 
Mickey's Mantle T,TR 
Micro Gulley TR 
Mister Green Jeans T,TR 
My Little Pocket Frog T,TR 
Nameless Arete TR 
Night of the climbing dead TR 
Nine to Five T,TR 
Nose, The T,TR 
Oh My Achin' Head T,TR 
Pharaoh's Revenge T,TR 
Pickin Pockets T,TR 
Pillar T,TR 
Posey's Pass T,TR 
Post Nasal Drip T,TR 
R&D T,TR 
Snake Bit T,TR 
Steeples T,TR 
Street Fighting Man T 
Stumbling Block T,TR 
Tim's Route T,TR 
Tinkerbell TR 
Trivial Pursuit T,TR 
Unnamed 7 T 
Unnamed Arete T,TR 
Warp Factor T 
Whip Me, Beat Me T,TR 

Christmas Crack 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Season: all
Page Views: 1,259
Submitted By: gus on Oct 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
"Christmas Crack". Palisades Park, AL.

Description 

Great crack climb, that evolves into easy face climbing above the short crack.

Work into crack and throw a solid left handed jam in crack and use features in crack to work feet up to a smear...throw your right hand to a high crimp just outside of the crack on the right wall.

Try not to put a cam in your best jam spot.

According to Tindell, its "harder" if you stay in the crack, but I have never done it that way.

Location 

Route is on Left/West face of the Island, about 10' from the arete and the corridor.

Protection 

Crack takes cams nicely (med cams at base of crack, smaller higher in crack) and plenty of placements on face above. Can set up a TR on top rather easily (have to jump across to the Island)


Comments on Christmas Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Justin Dansby
From: GA
Feb 27, 2008

I like staying only in the crack at the bottom and avoiding the jugs on the outside. If you do it this way it seems truer to grade. The bad thing is both of the jam spots are also good trad placements. I've only TR'ed it.
By justaguy11
Jan 14, 2012

1. The purpose of the route description is to help other climbers locate the route....not to spew your move-by-move beta (GUS).
2. Gus' move-by-move beta is not actually the route, btw. The route is called Christmas CRACK, not Christmas face.

The route goes up the blocky start to a stance below the start of the crack. From the stance enter the crack and solve the puzzle to reach the top of the crack (10 feet) and exit above to easier ground.
If you climb the face (as Gus does, apparently), the route goes 5.9.

Cheers.
By Nathan Self
Mar 7, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Brutal start--one of the best climbs at Palisades.
New anchors at the top.