Chris Buckley's Arete   5.7

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  Chris Buckley, 2005-6 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  bradley white on Aug 22, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Start up direct and do some funky foot steps right and then back left to the edge or go direct doing several feet of harder moves (5.8). The climb becomes easier and easier the higher up it goes. Ends at 5.4 climbing. This is a wonderful climb. The trouble with it is everything after that is an extreme finish for the second pitch. It ends at the central belay station. Going to need two ropes to rappel it or rappel into the the gully before the base. I would rappel again off a tree. This gully has very dangerous footing and hundred plus foot fall if you slip out of it.

Location 

At the base of the Monolith gully east side. Step across to cramped ledge at tree for belay. Easier to rappel to it than climb up this gully ravine below the Monolith.

Protection 

10-12 eye bolts. Tree for belay at the start