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Chouinards

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chouinards' Right 
Comrad's Corner 
Larry 
Tree Route T 

Chouinards Rock Climbing 


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Location: 37.94147, -119.22525 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,441
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: chad umbel on Jun 6, 2007  with updates from Ian McEleney and 1 more
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Description 

This little crag probably has the most reliable water ice in the state, and it's got the crowds to prove it. When the ice is fat and everyone is polite as many as 8 ropes could be set up. 6 sets of bolted anchors exist at the top of the cliff, some of which get covered in ice some years. Accessing any of these anchors from the top involves exposed icy terrain. All of them can be rapped to, though you might have to rig your own anchor to do so.

All anchors above the main ice flow (left of the Tree Route) are over 30m up. That is to say, they require at least 70m of rope if you want to top rope. In low snow years plan on extending your anchor or having more rope.

Getting There 

Approach from The Poole Power Plant. After passing through the narrows continue up hill. Now that the Bard-Harrington Wall doesn't come in consistently this is probably the second big flow on the left.

If you climb to the top, walk off right.

Climbing Season

For the Lee Vining Ice area.

Weather station 0.7 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Chouinards

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Chouinards:
Tree Route   WI3 M3     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 90'   
Chouinards' Right   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Chouinards

Featured Route For Chouinards
Rock Climbing Photo: Larry, showing the tree that's often used to top r...

Larry WI2+  CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Chouinards
This is the farthest left of the three little routes on the right side of Chouinard Falls commonly known as the "Three Stooges". It's commonly top roped from the the scrawny tree 70 feet up. It comes in mid-to-late season and the top doesn't always form. The ice can be a bit thin in places, so it can be a tricky lead for the grade.Climb 30 to 40 feet of ice to a lower angled area of snow. Up this past a tree (of dubious integrity) and climb steepening ice to a unique left leaning ramp. Just befo...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Chouinards Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark on Chouinard Falls
Mark on Chouinard Falls
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Mike Ward looking solid on the Main Line in very e...
Rock Climbing Photo: View of Tioga Pass from freak of nature ice cave, ...
View of Tioga Pass from freak of nature ice cave, ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Ward gettin the rust off his screws on the Ma...
Mike Ward gettin the rust off his screws on the Ma...

Comments on Chouinards Add Comment
Show which comments
By rhyang
From: San Jose, CA
Jan 12, 2011
The Bard-Harrington Wall started coming in late last season (Feb. 2010) and has been climbed recently (January 2011).

Whether this is because of any alleged leaks in the penstock or because of a higher amount of precip is a matter of conjecture & rumor.

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