Chouinard's Gully   WI3

3,775 page views Good page?

Type:  Ice, 2 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II Consensus:  WI3- [details] FA:  Yvon Chouinard Submitted By:  J. Albers on Jan 5, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Chouinard's Gully seeing from the far side of Chap...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Climb the obvious flow for 2-3 pitches depending on belay strategy. There are numerous fixed tree anchor stations on the left side of the route and it may be wise to use them because they keep you out of the way of falling ice. Unless there are other parties (which is often the case), doing it in 2 pitches works well.

While it is not uncommon to have many parties on this route at one time, be prudent and careful because the gully tends to funnel falling ice directly onto the route below.

Descent (two options): (1) Walk off across a ledge system through the forest to the climbers left; (2) rappel the route using the fixed tree anchor stations on the left side of the route (however, be aware that rappelling this route when there are other parties present may create problems)

Location 

Park at the Chapel Pond parking area and spy the obvious fat gully directly across from the parking area. Hike across the lake (making sure it is thoroughly frozen) and make your way to the base of the climb.

Protection 

Usually takes as big a screw as you want to place. Ice or tree anchors.

Photos of Chouinard's Gully Slideshow

Add Photo

D. Albers climbs the upper pitch of Chouinard's Gu...	BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 of Chouinard's was very wet. (Jan, 28 2012...	Early season conditions on Chouinard's Gully.
Chouinard's Gully, early season.