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Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bauman
Page Views: 1,808
Submitted By: ferrells on Dec 20, 2009
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Running out the start on Chouinard's Crack.

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Description 

Chouinard's Crack is one of the best splitters in the Park. There's not much more to say about it -expect really fun, straightforward fingers and thin hands crack climbing with solid gear.
If you want to spoil it, finish off with the rest of Peking, but for a great outing, finish up on Moscow.


Location 

Hike across the bridge, and straight up the Misery Ridge trail. Pass the right side of Picnic Lunch Wall, and most of Red Wall, while hiking uphill. It screams to you from the trail as you come to the last section of climbing on the Red Wall.
Tell tale signs that you are in the right place are a couple of big blocks to chill on at the base, a chalked up, left leading hand traverse leading to the crack, and the obvious, clean, and inviting crack system to the right (Moscow).


Protection 

Gear from fingers to hands. If you want to stitch it up, you might be able to wiggle in a blue camalot towards the top, but I bet a no. 2 (hand size) is as big as the crack will allow.



Comments on Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) Add Comment
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By hemp22
Dec 22, 2009

This is also frequently known as the first half-pitch of Peking.

By berl
From: Oregon
Jan 7, 2010

also, peking is rated 5.8 here on MP and everywhere else.

By ferrells
From: Minneapolis, MN
Feb 21, 2010

Au contraire, Watts called this pitch 5.9 in his new guide. I don't think it particularly matters, but I changed the grade to 5.8.

By Wesley Ashwood
From: Squamish, BC
Aug 3, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Nice crack, but just a little too short.

By K Baumgartner
Aug 4, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Nice line that presents varied crack technique. Only wish it were longer. Either rap or continue on Moscow.

By Chris D
From: the couch
Sep 15, 2013

Polished!

What a fun climb. The business is over after just a couple of jams off the blocks as plentiful and solid holds present themselves on the left face. Great little climb, but over too soon.