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Alex leading up p1 of Chouinard special.
Start off in the dihedral with the hand sized crack (15 feet left of the start of the Lieback). Jam this to a ledge (5.7), then clip the first bolt. The ledge has an anchor on it but keep climbing. Climb up the slab on whatever micro edges you can find to the next bolt. There are 5 bolts on the face to a ledge with a bolted anchor.
Admin's Note: there is also a second pitch of runout face climbing that leads to a higher bolted belay anchor.
The first dihedral route to the right after hiking up the trail--Starts just 15 feet to the left of the Lieback.
Some wires and hand sized pieces for the start dihedral which is about 40 feet long. Then some QD's for the face. 70 meter rope needed for this route, a 60m WILL NOT get you to the ground.
By Matthew Fienup
From: Ventura, CA
Oct 16, 2009
Originally rated 5.8 X. Subsequently, four lead bolts were added to protect what had been a 30 foot runout on the first pitch.
By Ryan Nevius
From: The Range of Light
Dec 28, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great climb. The slab above the crack is classic. Perfect little edges. Just keep moving!