|Winter Warmer Area
|Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>|
Climb the slot with small cams and a few nuts to the belay ledge on Ugly Stick. Climb the crack in the face right of Ugly Stick protected by more wires and small cams. When the crack runs out, the real choss begins, but so do the bolts; all the way to the rim.
This route starts in the shallow slot just right of Ugly Stick, left of Crash Test Blondes.
A 70m rope, slings, wires and cams to gold Camalot. Doubles in the smaller sizes help. Nine bolts to get you through the chossness, to chain anchors.
Take care with a heads up belay, and be sure to wear the helmets for this one.
Dave on P2 in the loose section. Beware of cracke...
Starting the upper part.
Looking down from the top of P2. Interesting posi...
At the bottom.
Blue is the approximate line.
Red is Ugly Stick.
About halfway up the upper part.
|By Dave Clark 5.10|
From: Golden, CO
Mar 12, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Nice route, although it's shedding more than my dog in April. It should clean up some with use, but it is not the best rock up high. Still, it's fun climbing similar to Ugly Stick. Well bolted and easily protected trad down low. As for Ugly Stick, can climb in 2 pitches with 60 m rope. (Maybe 50 m, but maybe just barely?)
From: Wherever we park!
Mar 21, 2011
Cool, man! I remember you were eying that line. I'll have to check it out!
|By Jay Eggleston|
Mar 1, 2013
The crux on this seemed to be at the last bolt. It seemed almost as hard at the beginning, but the pro was adequate. RPs seemed nice to have.