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|Type: ||Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1600 feet, Grade IV|
|Consensus: ||5.10b [details]|
|FA: ||Steven Lucarelli, John Parnagoni, Joe Johnson June 2007|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Steven Lucarelli on Jun 27, 2007|
John on the exposed 8th pitch.
|Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!|
This route is destined to never be a classic but it was the only thing that was dry enough to get us to the top of the Stump.
P1: Climb up moderate less than vertical rock split by several ledges and head for a steep arete formed out of large stacked flakes. Chimney through the flakes with the assistance of some finger cracks for pro and belay to the left of a large flake on an incut ledge. (200' 5.10a)
P2: Climb easy rock up and left to a large dirt ledge. Follow the ledge left passing two bolts on either side of a crack an set up a belay near the end of the ledge. (185' 5.7)
P3: Move left and climb a band of rock that traverses up and left with good feet and a small overhang for hand holds and pro. Continue up while still traversing left on loose rock ledges and belay at a flake that will take 3" cams. (180' 5.6)
P4: Traverse left some more to a steep face that has a 5 or 6 foot wide water streak on it. Cross the wet rock low and then climb straight up a flake (crack may be wet) and continue up really loose rock until it possible to set an anchor.
P5: Continue up bad rock in a gully being careful not to knock off anything big that will kill your belayer and set up an anchor where the rock gets solid again. (130' 5.6R)
P6: Traverse up and left on ledges to a steep face with some small right facing dihedrals. Climb straight up using the dihedrals to your left and the face to the right until you get to a small overhang with a little chimney below it. Climb through the overhang on the left or right and traverse up and left to a good ledge to belay. (170' 5.10b)
P7: Follow a large Arete straight up to easy terrain an continue up a nice crack with a chimney to the left and belay on another good ledge. Some simul-climbing will be necessary to reach the ledge unless you have a 70m rope. (210' 5.8)
P8: Climb up a steep open book dihedral that turns into a sloping ledge. Traverse left on thin slab and up a short pillar with a large block on top. Continue left past the pillar and up some steep exposed cracks to a large ledge and belay. (100' 5.9+)
P9: Walk to the left side of the ledge and follow a hand crack that turns into an easy offwidth. The crack ends at a huge ledge covered with loose rocks so be careful. Walk across the ledge to the right and belay at a vertical rock face. (190' 5.7R)
P10: Climb straight up the vertical face following finger and hand cracks to another ledge. Continue up a right facing corner and pull left at the top onto a snow covered ledge. Either post hole through the snow or climb around it to a large ledge below the summit. (190' 5.10a)
To find the start of this route traverse east along the south side of the Stump until you are below the Wisdom Tooth where the gully between the two peaks comes to an end. Scramble up some steep loose rock and dirt (maybe some snow too) until you are at the high point where the scree ends and the cliff begins. There should be a steep wet face just to the right from snow runoff off of the Wisdom Tooth. The first pitch is identified by some moderate terrain split by ledges that leads up to multiple layers of large flakes that form a steep arete. From the Summit scramble down to the south west and rappel down the Goldfinger route.
Standard rack up to 3"
Looking down from the top of the 4th pitch at a lo...
Joe leading the crux pitch on slightly better rock...
Picture take by Joe from the summit.
John starting up the 7th pitch.
Joe getting some cracker Jack
Found this topo that I made of the route. Not the...