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Choss Garden

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beata S 
Benefactor, The S 
Black Dynamite S 
Bridge to Total Freedom, The S 
Daisy S 
Depth of Field S 
Garden Party S 
Gardener, The S 
Mellow Gold S 
Nettle S 
Pitbulls on Crack S 
Touchy Subject S 
Touchy Tuco S 
Tuco's Nettle S 
Up in Arms S 

Choss Garden Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.6341, -111.73328 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,054
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: apross on Jun 18, 2009
Forecast:
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Description 

A good cliff with better rock and routes than the name suggests.
Stays in the shade till 2pm.

  • In wet weather conditions, skip this area. A day or two after rain or snow, the wall seeps considerably and most routes are unclimbable. In addition, the nature of this crag tends to be loose, holds here will break a lot faster in wet and moist conditions.

Getting There 

Drive 1.6 miles up from the Storm Mountain Picnic Area you'll see a steep wall (The Choss Garden) up in a gulley on the north side of the road. There's a house on the south side of the road. Park on the shoulder just up canyon from the house and enter the gulley where you'll run into the talus slope. 15 minutes approach.

At the top of the main talus slope stay to the left. Head up the rocky/pruned trail another 5 mins till level with the first routes.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.9 miles from here

15 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',4],['5.12',10],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Choss Garden

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Choss Garden:
The Bridge to Total Freedom   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 50'   
The Benefactor   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 55'   
Mellow Gold   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Choss Garden

Featured Route For Choss Garden
Rock Climbing Photo: Beata

Beata 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Choss Garden
Get full value out of the wall without the shenanigans required of The Gardener. This climbs all the way through the crux of DOF, then heads left through crux of Nettle, passing TS en route to the Tuco finish. Gave it its own name, both named after dogs that passed away this year (2010), because it's got to be one of the best pitches in Big. 70' of consistent steep climbing and great rock. It's an absolutely stunning route. Grade's a little soft but it just seems worth more than the others. Just...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Choss Garden Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: topo
topo
Rock Climbing Photo: I might be stupid, but there are about 12 gullies ...
I might be stupid, but there are about 12 gullies ...

Comments on Choss Garden Add Comment
Show which comments
By CTrudeau
From: Driggs, Idaho
Mar 22, 2010
Found a helmet at the base on 3/21/10. Drop me a line to get it back.
By Cowboy Roy
From: SLC, UT
Oct 15, 2011
anyone have any info on the fixed routes ?
By KipHenrie
From: Farmington, utah
Aug 11, 2012
As you start up the trail go left and not right like we did.
By automated
Jun 7, 2013
CAUTION, SKETCHY BOLT ON 12d, FAR LEFT SIDE OF CHOSS GARDEN

On the 5.12d on the far LEFT side of the crag, the 3rd bolt had a small block / hold next to it with a chalk "X" on it. Seemed suspicious so we wiggled it and it came of, revealing a very questionable bolt placement with what looks to be small stress fractures in the surrounding stone.

Would recommend avoiding this bolt. Needs to be moved to more solid territory. Hard to say how solid it is, really, but a visual inspection does not inspire confidence.


By lance bateman
Jan 27, 2014
Had a nice afternoon of climbing at the Choss Garden. Mid 40's, sunny and Fun routes. But many of the belay anchors and the fixed chains? left me wondering... Is it really that hard to set up a route with decent hardware that makes sense?
By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 25, 2014
Directions indicate to drive 1.6 miles up canyon from Storm Mountain picnic area - following these directions puts you at the base of the s-curves and Mill-B trailhead.

Rather, from the intersection at the mouth of the canyon drive 3.8 miles up canyon and park in a pull-off on the north side of the road.

goo.gl/maps/2IN8B

On the south end of the pull-off you'll notice a faint trail heading up scree into a gully, follow this trail up to the easily noticeable crag.
By skiandclimb
Sep 23, 2015
The Directions are wrong in both the guidebook and on this page. Drive 1 mile past the Storm Mountain picnic area. Park on North side of road across from private house. Head up rocky gully and traverse right when level with wall.

As mentioned before, the .12d on far left has a bad bolt placement in poor rock and this route does not seem to get much action.

"The Benefactor" 5.12b now has a nice equalized 2 bolt anchor instead of the old slings around the tree.

There is a new route "Garden Party" 5.11a on the far right side of the wall.
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Feb 5, 2016
As the once-dubbed "mayor" of the crag, I'll weigh in a bit. I think this means you're the only one who climbs here, which was the case for a few years. I'll add bits for each route but, when we put the chains on, it was to facilitate climbing on the left side so that you didn't need to walk the ramp when other people were climbing. Not that they were too often.

In winter, this wall is hot. You can climb here, if it's not seeping, until temps are in the teens.

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