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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
This climb not apparently described in the book, nor is it named or rated. It is on the on the wall's main face, 1/2 way between "NEAT" and the "Anunnaki Pillar." You will see a pair of twin cracks with thin hands on the left and chossy, intermittent tips and seams on the right that reach a anchor at 70' or so up. Climbing the right-most crack to reach a spot where the cracks converge will pass the technical crux. Be wary as the route was cleaned by hand on the FA, but not cleaned as thoroughly as may be possible on rap. Some flakes, holds and edges still flex and will likely yield to a hard pull. The gear placements are also not clean. The route needs a few more runs to be as solid as it will ever be, and even then will be a climb to be wary of leading, although the moves are really good. Imagine perplexing and sequential eldo-like cruxes with desert stone. A nice break from the treadmill, and practically a 'trad' face-climb in places. The singular crack to the right can be continued as an 'eliminate' problem intentionally avoiding the crack on the left as they come closer up top to add a second 5.11 crux. Lower from a single bolt and 2-fixed-stopper anchor. A cam can be used to back this up for TR'ing if desired.
TR. A lead is probably possible now that it was cleaned (while I climbed it). A brief inspection would probable lead the saner of us to forgo this until the route is more carefully dusted and cleaned. The rating would be at least 'S' even after the most noble cleaning efforts were complete unless you like small RP's in shallow placements at the creek. I advise the aspiring leader to check out the route's moves, holds, and placements before casting off into the unknown. The hospital was too far away for my taste. If you lead it, take a set of nuts, lowe-balls, and a set of cams from *tiny* to thin-hands.
By Aaron Livingston
From: Moab, UT
Oct 16, 2015
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Gave this thing a lead after 1 TR burn. Interesting "face" climbing with decent but spaced out gear down low. I found cams did the trick, although a couple of small offset DMM nuts would give some peace of mind, and the possibility of placing gear ahead of you rather than behind. RP's not really necessary. It would be a hardcore onsight by creek standards. Felt like 11 on TR, 11+ on lead.