|Choss Bubbles (summer var. to an existing winter route) || |
Choss Bubbles (summer var. to an existing winter route)
The first pitch with an interesting 5.9-ish start.
Ascend the longest section of the North Face directly to the summit starting on a 500 foot slab wall. This is the best rock on the route. Three pitches will get you to the top with the second pitch being the 5.9 crux, but 99% of the climbing is around 5.6/7. Excellent slab climbing. Upon reaching the top of the initial slab wall about 400-500 feet of very loose, class 3 scrambling brings you to the "choss bubbles", a strange, bubbly-looking formation of gravely granite. One pitch of 5.7R will be enough to surpass this strange little section. It's R-rated for the few legitimate placements and the fact that it's like climbing on small marbles. After this section is another 400-500 feet of class 3/4 scrambling on extremely loose terrain. We chose to simul-climb this portion as a safety precaution. After this ridiculous bullshit, you've summited. Yeah. I gave this route one star for the initial, fun slab pitches, otherwise this route blows. Have fun!
The route ascends the longest section of the North Face directly to the summit. Descend via the West ridge over the West sister peak and and down the other side to a low saddle and downclimb to the camp.
Set of cams from 0.5 inches to 2 inches and a set of stoppers.
|Photos of Choss Bubbles (summer var. to an existing winter route) Slideshow
The beginning of the simul-climbing to the summit.
Choss Bubbles. This photo was taken at the top of...
Leading through the "choss bubbles", 5.7R.
The final, short, class 4 simul-climbing to the su...
|Comments on Choss Bubbles (summer var. to an existing winter route)
|By Chris Wenker|
From: Santa Fe
Jun 29, 2011
Interesting. Any idea how your line might relate to this summitpost guy's mixed route, or any of his other (unpublished) lines on Rolling Mtn?
From: Durango, CO
Oct 25, 2011
Interesting line. Looks a lot like one of my routes with my partner Lou Martinelli (Durango) although we climbed it in early winter conditions, so there was a lot rock/ice on the pitches. To date, I've climbed 4 routes there. Always exciting...always loose. I guess the names sums up the experience.
|By Nic Harnish|
From: Durango, CO
Oct 28, 2011
Yes, winter conditions would certainly be favorable and more exciting for this face. I would call Choss Bubbles an unfavorable summer variation to the Dave F. and Martinelli line.