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Not as bad as it looks.
Not the best climb I've ever done, but as its right next to Savage Dance I did it as a warm up of sorts. The overall quality of the route is quite fun. Climb up through the bottom loose section to reach the first bolt, then enjoy more face climbing to the top. Book doesn't give a letter to the 5.11. Felt b'ish.
Obvious blocky/chossy looking rock up through a hole thing to a 3 bolt face climbing endeavor.
3 bolts+2 bolt anchor plus some gear required. The bottom of the route looks a bit chossy and loose, which it is, which is probably why the Ruckmans gave this one an R. I didn't give it an R because I got two decent pieces in that I felt OK about prior to clipping the first bolt, and its not really hard climbing. I used a #3 camalot and a small blue tcu. Bring a few cams with you in case you like one placement better then the others.
By John Steiger
Aug 16, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Concur, not an R. Id even say the route is almost safe -- its just that several handholds are dubious, and if the wrong one blows, you'll take somewhat of a ride. I suspect that, due to the development of East Hellgate and crags like Aguaworld, our communitys perception of choss, or at least dangerous choss, has changed a bit since Dale lived here. I could go with the b, but I tied a good pump on trying to figure out which holds to use, and blew, so my ego dictates the grade. Speaking of ego, nice photo Ten.