Follow the established trail straight uphill from the second and larger of the Bummingbird Boulders. The trail goes right by a huge block with a substantial 30 degree overhang that faces out over the valley below.
The name, above, is admittedly awful. I could never determine the historical name for this block. Unlike the bomber granite of the Seam Boulder, the gneiss-like stone on this one is very sharp and its smaller holds are prone to breakage, though its size and angle are compelling.
Expect the top out holds on all climbs to need cleaning. Drainage from this massive block is right down the front face where the climbing is, so dirt and debris can obscure the holds and make establishing the slab dangerous. There are no jugs to rely on. Once a climber has established on the slab, carefully scamper to the right and down jump where the hillside rises up. Very dirty and seeping features and loose rock await if you attempt to summit the next 40 feet of slab instead of escaping out right. Though not really highball, this is a bad block to session on alone if you intend to top anything out.
Because of the dirty and insecurity factors of the top out/slab, it is clear that this block has been climbed on for years but rarely topped out. In order to top out the climbs I'm listing, I had to clean everything on rappel. I would love if someone could confirm that the 'established' lines were indeed topped out in the past and not just climbed to the lip.
Problem IV: start with hands high: left on a sharp sidepull (used for the second crux of pyrrhic victory), and a crystally sidepulling crimp. The left hand will help you identify the right. Stick a foot on and stab the finger buckets above and finish as for Pyrrhic Victory.This fierce, one-move wonder might hold your attention for a second before your flappers develop.*The same top out issues apply to this line, as with the rest....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
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