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This less-traveled route is fantastic. Stick clip the high first bolt and choose either the easier flake start or the crimpy direct start added by Doug Reed in '88. Climb through a couple of desperate reaches (maybe a dyno) past bolts and gear to a slightly runout section at top. Clipping the chains will make you feel like a badass!
Definitely a bit harder if you're under 5'9 (although that could be said about a lot of routes at the New)
Starts at the flake around the corner from Will to Power
4 bolts, trad rack, 1 pin. Bolted anchor.
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 7, 2015
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Maybe among the best 5.12s anywhere.